Fertilizing and Watering
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Subject: Misting over head
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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TobyY |
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I'm going to try misting overhead this yr to bring the temps down when it gets into the 90's. By misting at intervals of every 30 minutes 5 minutes at the time, will this promote disease if not sprayed every day or two? In an organic program what would you use to alternate with? Thanks Carl
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2/21/2006 8:27:34 PM
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RogNC |
Mocksville, NC
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Carl, rain, and watering overhead has been proven to wash the spores of powdery mildew off the leaves, so it might be a good thing. I'm going to use neems oil, and doconil if things get out of hand. when misting just besure leaves are dry before nightfall. my 2cents worth Rog
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2/23/2006 9:41:28 AM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Keeping leaves wet too long can cause all sorts of fungus problems too. Powdery Mildew starts on the undersides of leaves. Therefore I've always felt that the best misting system would combine misting heads both above & below the canopy. It's easy enough to design on paper but quite another matter installing it in practice.
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2/23/2006 10:26:55 AM
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C&R Kolb |
Chico, Ca
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Your work is cut out for you going organic... we mist alot but have to use heavy fungicides....
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2/26/2006 9:56:39 PM
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ROCKITV8 |
Youngstown, Ohio
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I am so confused on what watering methods to use Drip, overhead, ect. this year has to be good because I am on the tour for this year and will be growing alot more than normal, 4 pumkins and 4 watermelon along with long gourd and tomato. I have used soaker hoses in the past with our first ever pumpkin going 548# 2 years ago and last year was the very first for watermelon and we took 1st and 2nd 183.5# & 176.5# I just need to come up with a system to use each year. any and all help would be forever thankful.my email is hrlyharv@zoominternet.net
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2/28/2006 10:08:00 AM
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pumpkinpal2 |
Syracuse, NY
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i thought i was "going organic" in '05... my heaviest fruit was 653.5, and i had WISHED i had added SOME Osmocote or SOME stroger fertilizers throughout the season, including more-frequent applications of seaweed and molasses, vine- burying, etc. i had relied on the natural elements of the soil and Mother Nature to work for me, but i think it backfired for me in '05....this year i intend to pay closer attention to the Agro-K program, possibly utilize it, and also COMBINE last year's natural method with what WAS working for me in past years. a happy medium, if you will....eric
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3/1/2006 6:13:15 PM
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pumpkinpal2 |
Syracuse, NY
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ROCKIT>>>>my thought on this is to use soaker hoses, but not the black ones that just weep moisture; they are the ones that have several hoses built into one, they may be flat, and have very small perforations from one end to the other. the pressure will have to be better than what i have had in the past, but i think that the basically high-powered, misting action of these hoses, when placed lengthwise from the tip to the stump of an AG plant, would provide really good coverage to the undersides of the leaves and the soil immediately under them; actually, the entire plant in question, under-leaf. additonally, the top side of the plant should also be supplemented by whirling-type sprinkler heads, like the ones that Joel Holland sells. once the vines are all buried, anything could be done concerning HOW to get that water to that plant as efficiently as possible. i would like to try this in '06.EG
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3/1/2006 6:21:13 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Jeez Carl...I didn't recognize the handle!
I have a similar "organic situation" with the kids at my son's school. We get Powdery Mildew around here something miserable. So I'm looking into ways that I can raise the daily light misting water pH to 8.0. This isn't hard to do if I want to build an expensive injection system & buy baking soda by the pallet. But I don't.
If I come up with a simpler solution I'll let you know.
Organic controls for that Fusarium you saw last year are a possibility. But I should wait until after Niagara to spill my guts or what's the point in going?
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3/1/2006 10:43:49 PM
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Gourdzilla |
San Diego, Ca.
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Steve, my public water is 7.9-8.1 pH. I mist and still get bouts of PM. I sure wish there was a way to rid the world of PM!
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3/2/2006 12:38:38 AM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Hey Vince,
Regarding your water pH: You’re certain it holds at 8.0? Have you ever tried just adding a spreader-sticker to your water (by itself) to see if that would keep Powdery Mildew at bay? In theory, doing this should offer some relief if the system directs the spray under the leaves every day.
Steve
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3/2/2006 8:11:15 AM
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Orangeneck (Team HAMMER) |
Eastern Pennsylvania
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My take on the sprinkler system this year, as I plan my automated system, is to provide ample time in between cycles, and especially at the end of the day, for the sun to completely evaporate the water off of the leaves. I plan to run my last cycle at around 3pm maybe, which will give me another 3 hours in the heat to dry em out in mid summer. If they flag a little in the late afternoon, so be it. But I think this should significantly reduce the PM. Jim
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3/2/2006 9:59:12 AM
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Duster |
San Diego
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I end my misting at 4pm with no bad results. I actually get pm faster when I don't mist than when I do. It works in high heat as far as I am concerned with no ill effects compared to not misting. Jimmy
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3/2/2006 10:18:11 PM
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Sequoia-Greg |
porterville, calif.
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Im 200 miles north of Duster.Im in the middle of the state here. It stays around 100 from june 1 to Oct 1st. I use mist system here for about 3 to 4 hours a day. I,ve had no problems at all with any kind of PM at all. But I do end my misting by 4pm in the afternoon to let leaves dry out before nite fall. I then deep water after misting. All water is off by 6PM. But I believe I do need to water a little more.than I do. Im always worried that Im over watering. I have great soil here and it drains real good.
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3/3/2006 11:16:24 PM
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Suzy |
Sloughhouse, CA
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I live south of the Kolb's in Sacramento County. I mist to and use shade cloth because of our high heat in the summer. Good luck Suzy
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3/21/2006 11:26:41 PM
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Total Posts: 14 |
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