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central Missouri

I'm looking for something that is about 50% ammonium nitrogen and 50% nitrate nitrogen. I'm not interested in high amounts of nitrogen, I'm more interested in the ratio. The best I've found so far is Macro-N 20-20-20 from Lesco. It's nitrogen analysis is
Total Nitrogen (N)20.00%
7.90% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
5.90% Nitrate Nitrogen
6.20% Urea Nitrogen
I would rather not have the urea and other nutrients if possible. Thanks, Mark

4/19/2006 3:16:27 PM

Mocksville, NC

The plant doesnt know the diff nitrogen is nitrogen weather it comes from munure, or senthetic

4/19/2006 5:38:19 PM

Puyallup, WA

If you "want your cake and it it too", then use Calcium nitrate. Most patches need more calcium.

4/19/2006 7:03:44 PM

central Missouri

From what I've read on the web it appears to be true that the form of nitrogen taken up by the roots doesn't really matter. But I read somewhere (can't remember where at the moment) that nitrogen taken in through the leaves, especially ammonium nitrogen, may have many numerous beneficial effects on the plant including heavier fruit and delayed suberization. What got me interested in the various forms of nitrogen is a study that Russ Landry has mentioned before on this list entitled, "Using Soluble Calcium to Stimulate Plant Growth" by Sam E. Feagley and Lloyd B. Fenn, which can be read at:

http://lubbock.tamu.edu/soilfertility/pdfs/calciumplantgrowth.pdf

The following paragraph in particular is interesting:

This same observation was made with beets, onions,
wheat, oats and barley (Figs. 5, 6). Within 30 hours of
application, onion and beet bulbs increased in weight
by up to 50 percent over bulbs grown with nitrate
(without ammonium). The weight of the entire plant,
however, did not increase as much as the bulb, which
means that calcium causes the carbonaceous compounds
to be deposited disproportionately in the bulbs

How well this research applies to pumpkins is not entirely clear to me but I may try it and see what happens if I can figure out how to do it. This is only my third year gardening and my second growing AG's so I've got a lot to learn. This will be the first time I've used foliar ferts. I plan to use Cal-Boron DL mixed with a 50/50 mix of ammonium and nitrate nitrogen if I can find such a thing.
Mark

4/19/2006 8:29:53 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Mark,

How does this sound?

Miller's 20-10-20

8.00 % Ammoniacal Nitrogen
12.00 % Nitrate Nitrogen

.5% Mg
.02 % B
.05% Cu
.10% Fe
.05% Mn
.005% Mo
.05% Zn

4/19/2006 9:11:31 PM

Cornwall UK.(50N 5W)300ft.

Straight Ammonium Nitrate (AN)is in the region of 34%N of which 17% is Ammoniacal,17% is Nitrate.
Very popular commercial fertiliser might not be easy to get if you're not a farmer because of its explosive properties.

4/20/2006 6:03:41 AM

central Missouri

I'm leaning towards the Macro-N 20-20-20 at this point since my soil test shows my Mg is already in the high range at 483 ppm and my Ca is on the low side at 1509 ppm. My soil already has plenty of K and both the Millers and Macro-N have 20% K so I'm a little concerned about the foliar applied K causing early maturation of the fruit.

I know the Albrecht ratios are questioned by many but I'm going to try and stay as close to them as I can "just in case" while making sure I've got sufficient amounts of nutrients in the soil to meet the needs of my plants.

Ammonium Nitrate seems to be just what I'm looking for but I don't think anyone will sell it to me since I'm not a farmer and I would only need a very small quantity relative to the needs of a farmer.
Mark

4/21/2006 1:31:29 PM

Ontario, Canada.

Mark, Thanks again for another great reference and subject. I'm exploring this topic eagerly.

For years most of us have applied calcium(Ca) foliarly. Much information exists that refutes the concept of Ca and leaf absorption and the mobility of Ca out of the leaves.

I have resisted soil applications for two years. This was due to already high soil Ph levels. I stubbornly held out, hoping that my splits could be reduced by foliar applications of Ca. Now, it appears that it may be possible to better apply Ca with N as the article states directly to the roots through drip lines. This maybe especially beneficial in high respiration times just after cool spells in mid summer after the fruit is set at basket ball size or larger.

One caution though. Hold back on the N until after fruit set. You can get into a runaway vine condition and poor fruit set if N is applied too soon. Moderation is the key as well. I would begin with N at 1/3 or 1/4 strength mixed with a soluble Ca at labeled rates, such as Calcimax which contains no N.

Russ

4/22/2006 11:01:05 AM

central Missouri

Ok guys, I read the above referenced article again and sure enough it only briefly mentions foliar application. I guess I've been reading too much and all the articles and studies are starting to run together in my mind. I can not find the article that mentioned the benefits of foliar Ca and ammonium. Maybe I misinterpreted something I read or possibly this article is a figment of my fertile imagination. Hopefully I'll get this figured out before I kill all my plants!
Russ, good advice on applying N after fruit set and in very conservative amounts.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and advice guys.
Mark

4/26/2006 3:49:28 AM