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Fertilizing and Watering
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Subject: Soil Help
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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JOE28 |
West Jordan, Utah
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I out 60 bags of leaves and a little straw in my soil last fall what else should i put in the soil?
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2/7/2009 5:23:24 PM
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giant pumpkin peep |
Columbus,ohio
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molasses to help it all break down faster I think.
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2/7/2009 5:28:31 PM
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Frank and Tina |
South East
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Have you done a soil test Joe?
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2/7/2009 7:31:10 PM
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Tomato Man |
Colorado Springs, CO
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Joe,.....Might you have attended the Utah Green expo in Sandy last week over Feb. 26-28th ? Truly, though, it sure would help to have you share a bit more about the soil that you are trying to improve. There are a number of enriching substances that could help you. For starters, do you descibe the top 8 to 12" as being sand-rich or clay-rich ?
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2/8/2009 12:17:15 AM
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JOE28 |
West Jordan, Utah
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My soil is mostly clay so that is why i put alot of leaves. the past 3 yrs i have been working the soil with compost and other mulch what types of fertilizers help when you put down lots of leaves?
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2/8/2009 10:08:29 AM
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Tomato Man |
Colorado Springs, CO
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Compost....is fertilizer ! If clays are dominant in your garden location consider amending with Expanded Shale to prevent that typical process of your clays becoming re-compacted. The chunkier your compost is, the better. The pieces of expanded shale are porous, like popcorn, and offer micro-pores in each piece for air and water to reside.
Maintaining a presence of some air in those clays will support the microbiological life that you introduced in the leaves and the composts. You can also sprinkle in some dry molasses, horticultural corn meal and alfalfa meal.....and feed the microbugs in that soil. Go to www.soilmender.com and one can find these suggested items there. Phone them, and ask for assistance and sales support in your UT market. You are investing in what delivers rest for the soul....one's ability to achieve success in their home's gardens. Buying the "cheapest" products does not necessarily guarantee such garden soil success.
You're moving in the right direction. Build your soil, feed your soil, and restore the microbiological presence that needs to be there. It might take a year to develop that healthy balance. Critical too, however, is knowing your pH as bringing that to somewhere between 6.5 and 7.5 is paramount to plant roots being able to "take up" the natural elements in the soil. Balance....of all the critical factors....means happy plants without stress. Insects attack stressed plants. Deprive those critters of stressed plants in YOUR yard and they will go attack your neighbors garden !
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2/8/2009 11:27:20 AM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Joe,
Get a basic soil test - pH, cation elements, soluble salts, etc.
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2/8/2009 4:17:09 PM
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JOE28 |
West Jordan, Utah
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what about nitrogen, calcium, and stuff like that do i need to add those? how much?
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2/9/2009 5:38:08 PM
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Will Wright |
Colorado Springs, Co (wtmanc3mc3@hotmail.com)
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joe, thats why tremor said get a basic soil test, it will let you know how much of what, if anything, you need to add to your patch. Takes the guess work out of it and really is the best 30-40 bucks you will spend.
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2/9/2009 6:15:32 PM
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gordon |
Utah
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From a J&L Garden Center newsletter. Garden Tip: Add 1 cup of ammonia sulphate (21-0-0-24)for every six inches of fresh leaves, or fresh organic matter, you add to your garden in the fall - for every 100 square feet (10’ by 10’). Fresh leaves, branches, and sawdust require extra nitrogen for the bacteria to decompose them. Roto till the organic materials into the soil in the fall, rather than letting them stay on the surface through the winter.
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2/13/2009 12:28:02 PM
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JOE28 |
West Jordan, Utah
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Thanks Gordon
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2/17/2009 8:00:16 AM
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Total Posts: 11 |
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