Message Board - BigPumpkins.com

Montoursville, PA

"Foliar application of plant nutrients can produce higher yields and make your nutrition program more efficient". Charley O'Dell, horticultural consultant and Extension Horticulturist Emeritus, commercial fruits and vegetable production. Crows Nest Farm, Blacksburg, Va., 1950

Comparing efficiency of plant use of foliar-fed nutrients versus soil applied nutrients near roots it has be proven by radio active tracing. It has been factually documented that foliar feeding provided about 95% efficiency of use compared to about 10% efficiency, of use, from soil applied fertilizers. Likewise,speed of absorption and use by foliar applications was immediate, whereas from soil applied the absorption and plant use both were very slow, thus providing a major benefit from foliar feeding. This became available data with the conclusion of studies in 1950.

With the above knowlege companies of all sizes began to improve their products. Little by little, publication by publication and study by study continues to prove and strenthen the conclusions of the studies of the fifties, not that much more needs proven. What we need is to get these facts and proven principles in the hands of the growers to benefit their crops. Some tweaking will always be evident however the basics have been known for half a century.

AGRO-K is one fine company that can be searched using Google. This is no small frog in the big pond company. Their research and data systems cover results all over America and far beyond. They have a pumpkin specific program of foliar feeding. In addition they have area reps and I in his personal overtime advising freely.

11/13/2003 2:53:25 PM

Montoursville, PA

MORE: I suggest you go to AGRO-K and begin reading. Go to any other company you wish. Talk with Craig. Perhaps you will see that this company is standing tall in the field of leadership in foliar applications.

Get a copy of Dear Dirt Doctor, Garrett, Texas University Press, direct or through Amazon.Com. The book is not related in any way to any specific company. It is a basic primer for those who are begining to challenge some synthetic chemicals and looking into less harsh methods of growing. Garrett makes and sells his own tea....However he also tells you exactly how to make your own if you wish.who have deep and wide experiences using their company products. One of our area representative who knows how to grow pumpkins, who coaches a number of heavy hitters and would be learning growers is Craig Lembke. Craig is an Ohio Member Grower. He manages and owns a vinyard. He helps you
better understand the healthy soil healty plant relationship.

11/13/2003 2:54:37 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Dwaine,

You might enjoy reading some of the abstracts available at this website.

http://www.actahort.org/books/594/

This is more a matter of elemental nutrient source issue than one of root versus leaf tissue absorbtion. Some elements are readily absorbed through leaves. Others are best applied to soils for root absorbtion. The primary reason for soil applied NPK in the world today is one of economics. That & the fact that manufacturing processes are just catching up to what we know about plant nutrition. Most common plant nutrients that are applied to soil will have even less absorbtion of leaves. The primary benefit to a foliar feeding of the classic "Miracle-Grow" soluble fetilizers is that it falls off the leaves & ends up on the soil where roots eventually utilize some of it.

This is an issue of source versus method of application. Modern chelating technology is changing all this.

I must say that the best fertility program is one that speaks to the plants entire environment & not just that of leaves or roots. Plants have evolved to live without nutirents raining down on their leaves from the sky. Though at times far removed from today, our atmosphere was much different. What was once a natural feeding for a plant might well be toxic for it & us today. Time has changed things since the primordial ooze of yesteryear & what was once a very gassey atmosphere.

Much of what we seek to achieve with "macro & micro nutrients" is actually the plants proper influence & regulation of hormonal balance. We have much to learn in this area still.

I would not discount soil applied elements (especially macros) nor foliar elements (especially micros). I have a list somewhere of the percent utilization of each known element somewhere. If you're interested I'll try to find it.

For sure, success lies in the balance.

Steve

11/13/2003 9:00:45 PM

Montoursville, PA

Steve.......no where in my post did I or any other person mention the elimination of soil fed nutrients or other additives proven successfull in patch soil building.

Foliar feeding is a supporting role that can make the total even more effcient thereby enabling adjustments and less use of soil applied added nutrients...while at the same time even improve the soil's ability to serve the plant.

The facts today based on real unemotional dry facts are that foliar feeding is here to stay because it delivers the promise of more effciency, more production at less cost when used properly. Strangely it is continually being proven that this can be done continually without nuking the soils into submission and a state of a less healthy condition. The soil builders of this day are not looking to treat the symtoms. They are continually working to improve the biological and structure health of the total. When achieved the healthy soil delivers the healthy plant quite able to withstand much of what we here to for thought we had to nuke them to prevent. Just moving to less harsh treatment is a big step for many....and then in time they see it, feel it, smell it and begin to understand healthy soil. Fertrell is a company that has fifty years of positive growth and experience using organic fertilizers and less harsh treatments when required. Their products are full of healthy patch growing elements. All else that matters today is in those products. They stand ready to help anyone who wishes to lean more into healthy patch and heathier plants by building stronger healthier soil.

Anyone reading their literature could likely figure it out without further study. They explain the way things work quite clearly. Fertell is a Pennsylvania based company that has grown by word of mouth and user distribution. Manyof the distributors are or were major users who attempt to help their customers one on one.

11/14/2003 4:47:23 PM

Montoursville, PA

Darn...I'm up to my old tricks. The spelling of the above company is Fertrell and I knew that too. 570-448-2374 ask for Richard. He is located in North Central Pa. He serves numerous heavy hitters and growers that are working up to some great weights. He understands pumpkin patchs and their healthy needs. You can go to Fertrell on line and seek one closer to your needs if you care to.

11/14/2003 5:43:55 PM

southern

Appalachian Mtns.

never a dull moment ;0)

11/14/2003 9:29:46 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Ummm. I wasn't suggesting you did. But 10% efficiency of soil applied granular is a little low. 15-60% is the range for soil applied Nitrogen. But there are a LOT of variables at stake.

Fertrell & Agro K are solid players. I'm not knocking them.

11/14/2003 11:34:04 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Dwaine,

Did you use the same Agro-K program that's on their website? You have me thinking. (smell the smoke?) I need to look at your diary maybe, but didn't you apply the 9-18-9 weekly through the spinklers? Do you recall the rate & frequency? I'm seeing where this program might have lessened the liklihood of aborts.

It also looks like there was a lot Cobalt in some of the program cinstituents. Any thoughts? Does anyone know if surplus Cobalt is good or bad for pumpkins?

According to my leaf tissue analysis results, we were low in Mangansese. I know another grower who is also experiencing the same Mn deficiency. A common side effect where liming materials have to be used to correct for low soil pH. Effectively correcting soil Mn is about as bad as soil applied nutrient recovery gets. I have some very high quality Chelated Manganese in transit that will best be used as a foliar correction. So my entire program is being rethought right now.

I think a greater emphasis on foliar fertilizers is an inevitable part of our future now.

Steve

11/15/2003 8:04:10 AM

Montoursville, PA

Steve.......because of your head and what's stored there I prefer that you get the literature and specifics for your own evaluation. The AGRO-K terminology is healthy soil ammendments and fertilization. Most but not all of their program is certified organic. There are two reasons...One the cost of certification is absurb and two a few of their products have small inclusions of product mix that may not be ever considered an organic. If anyone was dead serious about organic certification...one they would know their business very well and two they likely would eliminate pumpkins as one of the most difficult non-native plants to grow without some support from materials a purist would not dare to use.

I will say that I use the entire program as proposed by AGRO-K which included numerous number valued products all or most of which were derived from organic sources. It is only expensive the first year because most products call for once a week use of only an ounce or two. The products are only sold in gallons.

The area AGRO-K sales rep may share with you specifically who set what record this year while using the product. The early list of success is most impressive. You, personally, were impressed with my fruit development. Both were on very heavy weight schedules or projections when I screwed them up for one reason or another. Would they have made the magic 1000 area? Surely we don't know that but it sure looked like they wanted to go there. Trying again this year.
....Maybe it was to bad that they had to put up with me. :)

Now my soil test and evaluation from A & L Western Labs is this: "Don't put any more stuff on your patch". "You are in excellent condition". "Salts are a little high". Unfortunately the patch still has to put up with any shortcomings I may create. Certainly the effort will be to manage and run clean to the hilt this year.

11/15/2003 9:16:56 AM

Montoursville, PA

Magnesium can be safely adjusted a little at a time by using a Fertrell product called SUL-PO-MAG. It's A SOLUBLE SULFATE OF POTASH-MAGNESIA. It is a crushed mineral that will not alter PH. Typical analysis will not be understood here so you dig in and take a look. I'm sure you will understand or could figure it out. I have never had to treat a symptom. Something I have always done keeps my magnesium in good to very good supply. Small amounts are in my AGRO-K foliar products. I'm talking two sources here. One for the soil and another for the foliar feeding.

11/15/2003 9:34:32 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Magnesium is OK. It's Manganese that get's clobbered by limestone.

I sell, use & have SUL-PO-MAG. Awesome stuff. But not in this case.

I'll send you a copy of the program when I'm done.

Steve

11/15/2003 11:22:54 AM

Kuna, Id.

I have over the last yr learned lots about soil, how a plant uptakes it and soil born pathogens. No expert by any means. The things I saw in my soil test did not reflect in a plant tissue test. The soil here is very high in calcium and when I saw very I mean you can see it as you turn up ground. I have had test with the calcium over 5000 ppm. I do think soil tests are very important, but a tissue test show the plants are lacking in calcium. From what I understand it is tied up in the soil and the plant can not get it. What I'm trying to say is even if your soil test looks ok a tissue test may show you that even if ppm are high in somethings the plant may not be getting it. So along with soil test this coming yr I will be doing tissue test also to make sure they are getting what they need. And the fastest way to change them will be foliar feeding. Now that I have confused myself I will stop typing as I lost track of what I was trying to say.
Ken

11/15/2003 1:53:15 PM

southern

Appalachian Mtns.

I strongly agree...tissue testing showed me what my problems were and the soil test showed me the causes. Both together is a much better picture and understanding of what's going on. I'll always have 'em done from now on, well worth the added expense.

11/15/2003 2:00:06 PM

Montoursville, PA

If I have lost two weeks getting to a visable need for a tissue test and another week attempting to adjust with foliar I feel the growing season is lost anyway.

My thinking is to carefully follow a proven program that has shown success from a base of very healthy soil to offer my plants what they need. Good proven programs already exist. I am not interested in playing the role of program developer. I certainly do not want to revent the wheel that is already running smoothly.

If other major organic or heathy soil, healthy plant program gains the recognition of having done better than what I have or what others have while using my present program I will certainly take a close look. I absolutely know the the AGRO-K pumpkin program is one of the very best.
I choose to let them tweak out any minor changes they deem benificial to or for me. They are principled in supporting mother nature not replacing her. Our healthy soil is first and foremost. Neither you or I can have the highest level of healty soil by continuing what we have done in the past.
We must constantly be on the alert to make attempts to reduce the harsher chemical uses. No one ever said these changes would take place over night for anyone. It is a process of working to and away from. The individual needs to grow into a good system that works. Working up to failure is not any fun for anyone. This certainly is one of the most interesting time periods in gardening. There are a zillion opinions and some of them are right.

11/15/2003 5:52:04 PM

Pennsylvania Rock

Rocky-r@stny.rr.com

Awesome thread here fellas! Ocrap mentioned the fact his soil has plenty of Calcium, but after tissue samples, there he found a shortage of calcium.. Why the lack of calcium in the plant? Ratios Ratios Ratios.. We know if your Calcium being 5000 ppm, but what are your potassium and magnesium levels? CA/MG ratio should be near the 7 to 1 area, while the Calcium to Potassium ratio should be in the 15 to 1 range. This also shows us the proper ratio of the Magnesium to potassium ratio to be 2 to 1.

Example. My patch # 1, numbers are as follows:
Calcium - 7286
Magnesium - 1036
Potassium - 744

This makes my ratios 7 to 1 (perfect) for CA/MG, second ratio is CA/Pot which is 9.8 to 1 ( a little low, but very manageable), and lastly the MG/Pot ratio being 1.4 to 1. Patch # 1 is at 6.7 PH, making this patch on the nose and ready for that 1000 pounder, but ah haaa!!! patch # 2 is where my problem is! (One note, patch # 1 is always my big fruit growing patch, soil levels shows that)

Patch # 2 levels

Calcium - 9319
Magnesium - 531
Potassium - 298

Ratios CA/MG - 17.5 to 1 (very high, a lot of work and concern here)... CA/Pot ratio is 31 to 1 ratio (waay to low on potassium) and lastly the MG/Pot ratio is 1.8 to 1 (not bad).

Corrective actions to be taken in patch 2 are as follows..Can't adjust and mess with calcium too much, especially being that high, so my fight is to bring up the other levels to create the proper ratios. 0-0-60 at reccommened rates should bring the potash up some, to offset the ratio disparity, and some of the SUL-PO-MAG spoken of earlier will help me with the MG defficiency.

All in all, this could be a very interesting year if I can get patch # 2 in shape. Just have to realize, without the nutrient ratio levels being correct, the uptake of each individually to the plant can not be maximized by the plants root systems..

11/16/2003 11:52:53 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Ken,

Rock's dead on. Find the percent base saturation for K, Ca, & Mg on soil tests & post them.

If potash (or other) is too high (relative to ca & mg - not in total pounds per acre) then it will take priority on the soil cation sites. Think of it as the potash displacing an area on the soil particle that might otherwise have been used for the calcium. The calcium is in the right house. But it's not on the dining room table.

In other words, once some basic total nutrient needs are met within the soils "bank" (say $1.00), then we're only concerned with the ratio of quarters, dimes, & nickles making up that dollar. Having more than a dollar doesn't help because the pumpkin can't make change. The coin slots are nearly full & can't take more of one without "fitting in" another. You either deliver the exact change, or it's "No-Sale".

Does this makes sense?

Steve

11/17/2003 9:20:57 AM

small patch

minnesota

This is a very interesing thread, but where can I find information on the proper nutrient levels and ratios? Is there a book or a web site out there that can get me pointed in the right direction?

11/17/2003 7:03:04 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Don Langevin's third & most recent book "How to Grow World Class Giant Pumpkin #3" has a chapter dedicated to the subject & is (in my opinion) his finest work to date. But don't start with #3. Start with #2 if on a budget. Get all three if cost is no object. There's a link to his website & another to the Amazon listing here somewhere. Try the search first. If no luck, let us know. Someone will repost it.

There are many more concise soils books available through university book stores. But for our purposes, Dan has a winner.

Steve

11/17/2003 8:44:37 PM

Kuna, Id.

Steve and Rock
When I first turned this patch my test were showing Ca over 5000 ppm and sense has come down almost half. What I was trying to say is that even if your soil test is perfect a tissue test in my eyes is a must. As with me and low Ca in the plant and high in the soil let me know that something had it tied up. I have Don's books and just got #III last week. Give me a hammer and a 16 penny nail and I'll set it in 2 hit's, give me a book and I'm lost. I'm a hands on person and have to learn from doing. To be honest I learned alot this yr. about soil and pathogens trying to find what was killing my plants. My soil is all screwed up so here is what it looks like. I take 2 test at a time #1 is from drip line of plant, #2 is from area were plants were to grow to but died before getting there. Test #2 got no water except what fell from sky. The hole patch is treated the same each fall and spring, so one would think test should be close.
Soil Texture: Loam
#1 pH 6.9 P.B.S 89, CEC Analyzed 16, CEC Calculated 14
Ca 1889 ppm P.B.S. Ideal for my lab is 65-80% mine 59
Mg 431 ppm P.B.S. Ideal for my lab is 10-20% mine 22
K 336 ppm P.B.S. Ideal for my lab is 2-6% mine is 5.4

#2(no water all season)pH 7.6 P.B.S. 115, CEC Analyzed 16
CEC Calculated 18
Ca 2509 ppm P.B.S. Ideal for my lab is 65-80% mine is 78
Mg 490 ppm P.B.S. Ideal for my lab is 10-20% mine is 26
K 479 ppm P.B.S. Ideal for my lab is 2-6% mine is 2.9
P.B.S.= Percent Base Saturation
It seems I drop 800-1000 ppm on Ca each yr. and gain on Mg and K. As you can see same test same patch, not even close. I don't know if it's due to no water on area #2. Due to not knowing better I have never added Ca to patch. Patch is around 15,000 sq. feet if that helps.
Thanks Guys
Ken

11/18/2003 1:41:53 PM

Montoursville, PA

Ken..........you are busting your butt doing your best. I can surely see that. Now why not spend about fifteen bucks for a dandy book that may help you a lot. Dear Dirt Doctor by Garrett, University of Texas Press or Amazon.com. Ken this one is written on my level so you can surely read it with understanding. :)

11/18/2003 5:57:43 PM

Kuna, Id.

Doc,
Thanks for the book name will get it found and on it's way.
Ken

11/18/2003 8:52:04 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Ken,

It's the water. Or lack there of.

Agriculture is huge in Idaho. So I had to do very little snooping around of the Kuna, ID area to find out more of our issue. You have outstanding resources in your area.

Your soil is in the order of Mollisol. Good stuff. But your rainfall is extremely low. My research indicates that from May 1st through the end of September, Kuna averages 3.1 inches of rain. We got more rain than that very week here this summer. You're not going to grow pumpkins on any soil in Kuna without a significant investment in irrigation.

For a peak at your mollisol soil type features see:

http://soils.ag.uidaho.edu/soilorders/mollisols.htm

You need to lower you pH. Sulfur @ 3 Lbs./M.

Raise the calcium. Gypsum @ 200-300 Lbs./M.

Level the soil before applying these elements. Then spread them evenly. Like painting. No skips. No runs. Water them a bit. Then till them in. Incorporate thoroughly. Either the lab you're using stinks (unlikely) or the soil is not being properly blended after the addition of amendments.

Do all this soon. Before the ground freezes. After the ground freezes you can design & purchase parts for your new sprinkler system. We'll help.

Repeat the soil test in late winter. But pick samples of a couple tablespoons of soil from each of 20 or 30 spots that are evenly yet randomly picked from throughout the entire patch. Blend all the soil together in a clean 5 gallon bucket. Then draw out 1 quart of soil & send it to the lab.

Hope this helps.

Steve

11/18/2003 9:49:55 PM

Kuna, Id.

Steve,
It seems that you now more about my soil then I do. I had never thought to look or had any idea that what you found was even on the web. I still see Idaho as stuck in the 60's.
Yes it is very dry here, but I do how ever have access to as much water as needed. I can get water from tap or from ditch. I have had both tested tap is high in salts and pH of 7.3 and ditch is low in salts pH 7.6. I have not used the ditch as I have no idea what the people up the ditch from me dump in it. I will spend more time tilling in fall amendments. I do till patch every weekend during season to save me some time pulling weeds. So taking soil from all over and mixing makes a lot of sense, kinda gives you a average. I will take a look at the site you found and add what you have mentioned.
Thanks for the help
Ken

11/18/2003 11:35:40 PM

Utah

Ken i think i have similar soil to yours.

I am trying to figure it all out also. I read different articals and opinions on how to treat soil like ours. So far the only thing i know for sure is that i can and need to add lots of OM.

Steve-
can i get you to comment on the following two contrasting (to me anyway) ideas...
thanks !

11/19/2003 10:11:40 AM

Utah

Curtis E. Swift, Ph.D.
Colorado State University
Cooperative Extension
Tri River Area Agent (Horticulture)

Western Colorado Soils
Reducing Soil pH
Buffering Effect of Calcium Carbonate

Western Colorado Soils
The acidity or basicity of a soil is referred to as pH and is based on the concentration of the hydrogen ions in the soil solution. As the hydrogen ion concentration (H+) in the soil increases, the pH drops increasing the acidity of the soil. If the hydrogen ion concentration drops in relationship to the hydroxyl ion (OH-) concentration, the pH increases with the soil becoming more basic (or alkaline). Since pH is based on a logarithmic scale of 10, each unit change in pH (i.e. 7 to 6) is a 10 fold change in hydrogen ion concentration.

Soils in the valleys of Western Colorado typically have a pH of 7.5 to 8.5 creating a basic/alkaline condition. Gardeners hoping to grow blueberries (pH preference of 4.5) would need to change the pH accordingly. When changing a soil from a pH of 7.5 to a pH of 4.5, a 1000 fold change in the hydrogen ion concentration would need to be made.

Reducing soil pH
Soil pH is usually reduced by the use of acidifying agents such as elemental sulfur or sulfuric acid. When sulfur is added to soil it combines with water and oxygen through bacterial activity and changes to sulfuric acid. This reaction takes place slowly over 6 to 8 weeks based on soil moisture and temperature conditions. It should be noted that since this process is accomplished through bacterial activity, when soil is pasteurized to eliminate pathogens
as is often done with houseplant potting soil, this acidifying process is unlikely to occur as the necessary bacteria are killed. Sulfuric acid is much quicker acting but should be used with caution as previously mentioned.

11/19/2003 10:13:16 AM

Utah

The Buffering Effect of Calcium Carbonate
The soils of Western Colorado are highly buffered with free lime (calcium carbonate - CaCO3). Any sulfuric acid coming into contact with calcium carbonate will react producing water (H2O), carbon dioxide (CO2) and calcium sulfate (CaSO4). No increase in hydrogen ion concentration occurs in this reaction, consequently no change in soil pH can occur. Instead, an increase in the salt level takes
place due to the resulting increase in concentration of the salt gypsum (calcium sulfate - CaSO4).

If the free lime in Western Colorado soils could be neutralized, any additional applications of sulfur or sulfuric acid would bring about a pH change. Six tons of sulfur (or 20 tons of sulfuric acid) is required per acre to neutralize each percentage of calcium carbonate. Many western Colorado soils contain 5 percent or more of calcium carbonate, thus 30 tons of sulfur or 100 tons of sulfuric
acid would need to be applied. With up to four thousand feet of calcium-based Mancos shale under these valley soils and with the irrigation water containing calcium carbonate, the possibility of reducing pH in gardens and lawns is highly unlikely. Gardeners wishing for an instant remedy for this problem can rest assured that no such cure currently exists.

Greenhouse operators and homeowners working with potted plants can effectively adjust pH as they are working with a finite amount of soil. In those instances where a peatmoss based potting soil is used, it may be necessary to raise the pH due to the acidifying affect of the peat moss. Calcium carbonate (CaCO3) is typically used to accomplish this task. When the pH of a potting soil needs to be lowered as when growing citrus, azaleas or Easter lillies, the use of sulfuric acid or sulfur may be needed.

11/19/2003 10:14:32 AM

Utah

Sulfur and gypsum (calicum sulfate) continue to be sold in Western Colorado as remedies to correct the soil problems in gardens and lawns due to a lack of understanding of the soil chemistry in the area. Farmers and gardeners alike should avoid the use of gypsum unless a soil test indicates a high sodium concentration and a low lime content. Such a soil is know as a sodic or alkali soil. Western Colorado soils are alkaline (pH above 7) and the two terms (alkali and alkaline) are sometimes confused. Western Colorado has very few true sodic soils and the use of gypsum should be avoided unless indicated by a soil test.

11/19/2003 10:15:13 AM

Utah

A reply to the above artical....

May I share with you the 4 years' growing experience of Jacob Mittleider in the 4-Corners area of SO. Utah, Co., Az, and NM. He found soil conditions basically as described by Dr. Swift.

To begin he used gypsum in his Pre-Plant Mix and ammonium sulfate for his Weekly Feed nitrogen source, along with the same level of micro-nutrients he'd used everywhere else.

He found his plants were consistently showing deficiency symptoms of the micro-nutrients or trace elements, and so he had to add corrective treatments for them. After correcting for micro-nutrient deficiencies, Dr. Mittleider grew great gardens in several locations for all four years he was there. We have substantial video footage documenting his experiences.

He instructed me today that if anyone is growing in that environment he would recommend using gypsum for the Pre-Plant, and ammonium sulfate, plus double the normal micro-nutrient amounts in the Weekly Feed.

Dr. Mittleider says to supply calcium while taking care of the soil pH is best and that it's simple, easy to do, and inexpensive. And for the folks in dozens of countries around the world who do it - it works - with no smells, worries, problems, hassles, or soil tests.

If you receive more than 20" of annual rainfall apply lime, either agricultural or dolomite, to your garden once before planting each crop. For the heaviest clay soil use 1800# per acre, and for extremely sandy soil use 800# per acre. An acre is 43,560 square feet, so just do the math for your own garden size. For example, a 30 X 50' garden is 1/29th of an acre, so in clay soil you'd apply 62# of lime, and in sandy soil you'd apply 27.5#.

11/19/2003 10:18:39 AM

Utah

Those amounts assume you are broadcasting the lime on your entire garden plot. If, however, you do as Jacob recommends and work only in the confines of the Soil-Bed in which you will actually plant, you will use substantially less. Again using the 30 X 50' garden as an example, Janet and Mary would have 10 18"-wide beds in that space. In a high-rainfall area with extremely heavy clay soil, they would
use 3# lime per bed - or 30# in the 30 X 50' garden - less than 1/2 the amount they would need if they were covering the entire garden. In sandy soil they would use 2# per bed.

If you receive less than 20" of annual rainfall you would use gypsum. In extreme alkaline conditions, additional sulfur is used. Both lime and gypsum are to be mixed with the soil, rather than applied just to the surface.

Jim Kennard

When questioned about the Pre-Plant Mix:

It is made up of 5# lime or gypsum, 4 ounces Epsom Salt, and one ounce 20 Mule Team Borax. That mix is applied one time per crop at the rate of 2# for an 18"-wide soil-bed 30' long. That amounts to about 2 level tablespoons for each tomato plant - mixed into the soil before planting - to last the entire growing season.

To make 26 pounds of Weekly-Feed Fertilizer, mix together the following:

Calcium Nitrate CaNO3 10 pounds
Ammonium Nitrate AmNO3 (34-0-0) 3 pounds 8 ounces
Phosphorus P (0-45-0) 3 pounds 12 ounces
Magnesium Sulfate MgSO4 (Epsom Salt) 2 pounds 12 ounces
Potassium K (0-0-60) 4 pounds 12 ounces
Boron B (Borax) 3 ounces
Manganese MnSO4 2 ounces
Zinc ZnSO4 3 ounces
Iron(Fe) Chelate #330 = ounce
Copper Sulfate CuSO4 < ounce
Molybdenum Mo < ounce
Gypsum CaSO4 1 pound

11/19/2003 10:19:41 AM