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Fertilizing and Watering
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Subject: Fertilzing numbers
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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Brooks B |
Ohio
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I was wondering for my records if someone could explain to me the numbers in Fertilizing, like 20/20/20, does the first number mean it Fertilizing the top of the soil and the second number the middle and the third number the bottom? I dont understand why u need to fertlize 3 parts of the soil, when ur only feeding the same roots.
Why do people change Fertilizing though out the year? All i really know at this point is to use 20/20/20 and use it with care, which i have been doing so i dont burn my plants.I also use kelp extract, i add i tble spoon per gallon and feed once a week.
I will also be starting to use molasses and was wondering what kind is the best to use.Krogers have like 4 diffrent types and they only come in pint size glass bottles. Thanks, Sly
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6/8/2004 10:23:01 PM
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Engel's Great Pumpkins and Carvings |
Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)
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1st Nitrogen 2nd Phosphorous 3rd Potassium
For Molasses find a feed grade molasses, if you buy it by the pint it will get expensive.
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6/8/2004 11:10:20 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Brooks,
First number is percent Nitrogen (N). We use more early to cause growth. N makes green parts bigger & greener.
Second number is Phosphorus (P), P makes roots set better early. Promotes flowers. We use it in the 2 weeks prior to the targeted fruit set period.
Last number is Potassium (K). A tansient element that regulates guard cells. Also helps fruits gain weight. We use more after fruit set to maintain growth. People who push large amounts of K often have a reputation of exploding fruit. People who go still further shut their plants down then swear potash is bad & won't use it again.
Together they're known as the Macronutrients (NPK) because plants need more of them than the rest (as applied by growers). Calcium ranks bvery high on our "needs list" too.
Moderation to a program that is based on sound soil test results is the key to managing mineral elements regardless of how they are delivered (synthetic or organic source).
Better soils require little to no synthetic additions for good results. But rare is the grower who consistantly hits 1000 lbs without some synthetics.
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6/8/2004 11:11:39 PM
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Louie1 |
Arizona
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Thanks Tremor.
We need a page like this at all times somewere here. So new growers can learn the NPK.
Jeff
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6/8/2004 11:30:33 PM
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Brooks B |
Ohio
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Ok, now i understand completly,Im glad i asked cause i would have been fertilizing a whole lot diffrently,lol I'm going to use this posting alot.
My plants was booming there till a couple days ago, they slowed down alot, not growing near as fast, i dont think my watering or fertilizing had anything to do with it, I think it was because it rained for 6 days and the nights was cool.
Linus, So i can pick that mollasses up at any co-op then,also do you mostly spray your leaves with mollasses when the fruit is on? How do you go about using it? I know everyone has diffrent ways, but from reading I'm getting its better to spray the leaves?
Thanks Tremor and Linus Slychit(Brooks)
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6/8/2004 11:44:05 PM
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Brooks B |
Ohio
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Your right jeff, I had no idea till now.If it wasnt for this site 90% of the first year growers, like myself, would be in real big trouble,lol
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6/8/2004 11:51:16 PM
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Engel's Great Pumpkins and Carvings |
Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)
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2 TBS per gallon with a 2 TBS Kelp and a splash oh Ivory soap. Works wonders for Cucumber beatles for me
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6/8/2004 11:58:03 PM
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kilrpumpkins |
Western Pa.
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Just to add something I think was missed, the numbers in , say 20-20-20 represent the "percentage" of each (Nitrogen,Phos., Potass.) in the mix you are using.
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6/9/2004 7:18:32 AM
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floh |
Cologne / Germany
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Jeff, you hit the nail. A FAQ page would be a great addition to BP.com. Imagine how many information is already gathered in the different boards here.
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6/9/2004 7:26:54 AM
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Mr. Bumpy |
Kenyon, Mn.
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Brooks, picked up my molasses at the fleetfarm store, don't imagine you have that particular store where you are located, but it was in the horse and cattle feed section, $4.79 a gallon!
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6/9/2004 9:34:04 AM
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Brooks B |
Ohio
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Bumpy,
That sure is cheaper then them pint size bottles(24 0z) at krogers lol, I think the cheapest bottle There was 4.79,ohhhhhhh my wife would have freaked when I brought home 10 bottles of this stuff and i told her I,m using this for my pumpkins hahaha, but hey,,,, Im running the show around here,,,,,,,,,,,,,Cause i wear the pants in this Family and she knows it,,,,,,She just picks my pants out for me.
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6/9/2004 9:54:32 AM
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Mr. Bumpy |
Kenyon, Mn.
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Should be noted also that with "blended" bag fertilizers' the numbers stand for the percentage of nitogen,phosphte and potash in the fertilizer, for example, a 100 lb. bag of 10-5-10 would contain 10 pounds of nitrogen,5 pounds of phosphate and 10 pounds of potash, and the rest inert ingredients.
Let us now turn to another useful term to be aware of, namely fertilizer ratio. This refers to the relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash in a fertilizer. Understanding ratios can be very useful when comparing two different fertilizers. Compare these examples: N-P-K Percents Ratio 10-10-10 20-20-20 5-10-15 Ratio 1-1-1 1-1-1 1-2-3
Note that the first two examples have the same ratio. This means that one fertilizer can be used with the same result as the other. However, you would need to adjust for the weights of the product. In other words, if you were using ten pounds of 10-10-10, you would only be getting one pound each (10% of 10) of N, P and K. To get one pound of each with the 20-20-20 formula, you would only need a five pound bag (20% of 5) to achieve the same results.
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6/9/2004 9:55:31 AM
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Total Posts: 12 |
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