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Follansbee, Wv

I have been reading the volumes and volumes of information to be found on the web about growing A.G.’s. I find the information on B.P. to extremely helpful and very knowledgeable. Several times I have come across questions about composting. While I do not profess to be an expert, I have been composting for years, and have nearly made it an art form!
I believe this is the best time of year for composting. All the carbons and nitrogen’s are just lying around waiting to be picked up. To keep each section of this short, I make several posts.

9/28/2004 7:49:21 PM

Follansbee, Wv

Some things I have learned about composting may prove helpful to those who wish to try it.
First, carbon to nitrogen ratio, C:N. The optimum is 30:1. It is nearly impossible to maintain this ratio, but anything close will work.
Second, the hotter the pile, the better, TO A POINT! I have actually had piles scorch and even nearly catch fire. The best temps for compost are 120ºF to 160ºF. If you plunge your hand deep into a good compost pile, you may get burned.
Third, the aerobic microbes working in your pile need lots of air. I always build my piles on a layer of branches and sticks. Also, I use a chimney placed in the center of the pile to allow good air circulation. You should be able to feel heat rising from the chimney, if you don’t the pile is cold and needs re-worked.
Fourth, there is a common misconception about using soil in a compost pile. There is no need to. The microbes you need will multiply very quickly in a proper pile. In fact, I do the twenty-four hour check. That is, twenty-four hours after I build a pile I check it’s temperature. It should already be getting good and hot. I do not use any soil. If you place meat, fish, or household garbage in your pile, you may want to add a few inches of soil to keep rodents away. From what I have read about mice, rats and coons wreaking havoc in pumpkin patches, I can’t imagine anybody would want to try to compost anything that would draw them! Also, soil makes turning the pile much more difficult.

9/28/2004 7:50:01 PM

Follansbee, Wv

I have some pics of my compost operation for this fall. In them, you can see the chimneys, piles, and separated materials. Look for the diary I am starting. I use the fabricated pile method. In other words, I keep materials separated into carbon and nitrogen piles until I have enough to build a full size pile. With care and a little work, a pile can be completely composted in about three to six weeks.

9/28/2004 7:50:54 PM

Montoursville, PA

Hee Hee..........I'm a junkie in that I toss in layers of this and that as they become available. I run over it with the tiller and toss it about with the fork. Anything that once lived will rot. So on any given day I may be adding something I just found and never thought to grab and use before.

Likely the only fact that will hold up consistantly about compost making is that the more variety of anything one adds the more valued the total may become. Some soil added seems to be an innoculation in it's own right. It carries the local bacteria into the the pile and helps the total of the pile to stay more in line with the elements and bacteria of the local soils. I guess in time all comes down to a local set of common good bacteria and fungi. That may be why many advise not to import components or soils.

On the build having a need for large amounts of compost I import from where ever I can get the components including poop. Melding and adjustment to local biology may take a little longer but building high humus and super alive compost is the only way to build the sustainable patch.

On this note I would dare say that every man's compost should be what and as much as he can get local and free.
Mix it up as much as can be and use as much different "stuff" in the pile as your imagination can codger up.

12/14/2004 2:00:03 PM