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Rhode Island

here are a few things that may help your first year be a successful one.
PLANT SIZE/LOCATION - many growers make the mistake of planting in a area to small and unappropriate for this hobby. you will need a minimum of 400 sq ft for each plant. 600 up to 800 is even better.no planting under trees, against the house, etc.
SOIL / PLANT HEALTH - there are many articles written regarding soil tests, proper soil balance, insect and disease sprays.you will need some form of program to protect your plant and pumpkins health.
FRUIT AND VINE POSITIONING - never attempt to bury vines or adjust pumpkin angle off the main until the air temp is warm and the vines become more flexable. burying early in the morning will definately bury your season.
SELECTING A CHOOSEN FRUIT - pollinate three pumpkins on the main vine starting at a minimum of 12 ft. the first pollination usually becomes your choosen fruit unless it falls into these three catagories.
1. really poor unmanageable angle off the main.
2. pumpkin shape is distorted or less than four segments
3. your second or third pollination on the main is growing faster
WHEN IT RAINS IT SPORES - during hot humid conditions mildew and other diseases will do a real number on your plants. after a heavy rain always apply a fungicide for mildew.
PIGS GET FAT, HOGS GET BUTCHERED - sometimes a little bit is just enough.
CHECK EARLY AND OFTEN - problems are easy to detect if you look for them. every day you should check overall plant leaves for color or possible leaf changes. inspect the base, main, stem of fruit, for any problems or changes.
BECOME A LIVING SPONGE -if you really want to be around come weigh-off day ? you can not do it alone. find someone in the area willing to help you. go visit there patch and see what they are doing.duplication is good so long as the person you are duplicating knows what they are doing. find this person even if you must drive a hr each way to visit.
Pap

2/18/2010 9:25:33 AM

Nowhere

COOL!!! Thanks pap

2/18/2010 11:31:56 AM

Middle TN

Thank you Pap, great info. I always take notes from your posts and I learn something new everytime. I knew about waiting till the vines were warm to move the pumpkin but didnt know about not burying vines in the morning. Your posts are very much appreciated :)
Thanks again,
Tammy

2/18/2010 12:21:44 PM

Rhode Island

when working with wood theres a saying "measure twice cut once"
when pruning anything from the plant other than the tiny third stage growth the saying should be " cut twice prevent an error"
in other words say your pruning off some leaves that are in the way? or a tiny pumpkin you no longer want? make the first cut a few inches away from where you want the clean cut to be. then go back and cut it again. could save you an "oh shit" kinda mistake.
pap

2/18/2010 5:22:38 PM

Finksburg, Md

Pap, thanks for all your great post. I always copy and print them for future reference. You are a great help to all of us newcomers. Thanks, Joe Z.

2/18/2010 7:09:24 PM

Bloomington, IN

I'll add my two cents for the newbs.

1. If you can, grow your plant down the center of your growing space instead of the flag pattern, your plant will get bigger faster - I grew mine in a flag pattern last year and my plant just didn't get as big as it could have.

2. Keep up on staking your vine's growing ends down - last year I got lazy and skipped a day of staking my vines down and before I knew it my main was reaching so far into the air it snapped under its own weight.

3. Don't snap your main vine before setting a fruit - because I got lazy with vine management last year I had to settle for a fruit on a secondary vine that was only half an inch thick, whereas the main was 3/4 inch thick, meaning less nutrient flow to the fruit. Also set me back two weeks of valuable pumpkin growing time.

4. Be careful not to burn your plants with pesticide - last year I used a rotenone-pyrethryns combo that said to use 4 tsp. per gallon for SVB control; at that rate it burned the leaves, leaving white splotches scattered all over the leaf surfaces, which set the plant back (happened in mid-June). Now while that rate could still be applied to the vines and leaf stalks, like your supposed to do for SVB's, the risk is too big of overspray hitting the leaves. I'm not using that stuff anymore.

These are 4 of the boo boos I made last year that cost me quite a bit of weight. I still managed to come away with a nice looking 352 lber, but if it weren't for those 4 mistakes I think I could've had 500 easy.

Brian

2/19/2010 9:18:04 PM

Coventry R.I.

Pumpkin cholo,,,,, Get yourself some Warrior-T you will never have a problem with svb,s or any insect
Great stuff,,,

2/20/2010 9:08:20 AM

Middle TN

I wish I could find Warrior-T. Ive heard a lot of people praising it but Ive never seen it anywhere :(
Tammy

2/20/2010 11:34:33 AM

Corryton, TN

Tammy, you can get it at your local farmers co-op. There are other chemicals with the same ingredient. Maybe Tremor will chime in and tell you which one is the cheapest. You will need a Restricted Use Pesticide liscense from the state to purchase it. Call your county angent and they can get you set up to watch the video and take the test. It's not difficult and you will pass.

2/20/2010 4:04:52 PM

Clayton, Ohio, USA

Tammy,

Cyanora 9.7 has the same ingredient as Warroir and It has performed ok for me. It can be ordered online at:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/cyonara-97-p-428.html

2/20/2010 5:27:51 PM

Bloomington, IN

I was able to control SVB pretty good with Eight and the rotenone-pyrethrins combo in rotation, using the rotenone-pyrethrin stuff at only 2 tsp. per gallon after the burn. But I think that stuff is just too harsh to begin with, so I'm pulling it from the rotation. I'm thinking about replacing it with Bifen-IT, though the Cyanara stuff in Bodene's link looks good too.

2/20/2010 8:04:05 PM

Hunter433@aol.com NEW YORK

hope i can find some 1 that is close to me thats growing a big so i can learn and watch zap norwich ny 13815

3/1/2010 9:28:11 PM

3 acre corner in Whittaker,Mi USA (faulkner5@msn.com)

Thanks out to you pap and also brian...You guys give great info and sage advice to us new folks...you're kinda like our pumpkin yodas schoolin us in the ways of the jedi masters. Hopefully one day we can also pass our knowledge down to the new recruits. THANKS AGAIN

3/11/2010 4:40:11 AM

Fresno, CA

Pap,

You mentioned don't plant up against the house. Is that because of shadows cutting down on sunlight hours for growing? I have to admit to this one I have been planting up close to the house. I don't have a lot of options because my lot is very narrow so any spot is close to something: house, fences, garage. But the garage and fences would give the plant more shade problems than the house would because of aspect.

-j-

4/5/2010 2:46:35 PM