New Growers Forum
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Subject: Late season vine growth
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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BIG SHOW DOG |
Kentucky, U.S.A.
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We see some suggesting allowing late vine growth(development) to give late season nourishment for the pumpkin. I can't say I'm a new grower, mostly a slow learner! My largest is in new PB territory and closing in on that 1000lbs. range, but my dailys have dropped to below 20lbs. The feeding arsenal is skimpy to say the least. I've been doing mostly the fish & seaweed, Cal-Mag plus and TKO. Thanks BP.com!
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8/25/2014 10:57:36 AM
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JEB37355 |
Manchester, TN
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Can anyone suggest a way to stimulate some late season growth? I've got a few side vines growing, but not a lot of new growth.
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8/25/2014 2:21:28 PM
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pap |
Rhode Island
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leave any third stage grow that shows up alone. starting now.
continue to feed the plant weekly with your growth program
keep soil moist but not drowned
cover pumpkin at night
from mid sept on sunny days - let the fruit stay exposed to the sun all day.
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8/25/2014 4:43:43 PM
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MNFisher |
Central Minnesota
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What pap said!
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8/25/2014 10:14:07 PM
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LB |
Farming- a bunch of catastrophies that result in a lifestyle
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Cool. I'm doing it right! LOL
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8/26/2014 7:23:16 AM
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KC Kevin |
Mission Viejo, CA
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Pap
Can you elaborate on when you flip the switch from terminating all new growth to letting it go late in the season? Day 40? Day 50? Or is it when growth starts to slow?
Thanks!
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8/26/2014 10:57:57 AM
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cojoe |
Colorado
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Good question on late plant growth. Ive been growing 17 years and I'm still not sure whether it helps or hurts.I'm trying to grow like paps so well let em go this year.
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8/26/2014 3:31:59 PM
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Porkchop |
Central NY
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Same question.... More so this time of year?.. Or are you talking about a certain dap?... Thanks!
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8/26/2014 4:08:29 PM
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BIG SHOW DOG |
Kentucky, U.S.A.
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I pretty much do as pap has said, as far I have been able. I am in new territory myself so I am hoping to create some conversation for us lower skill level novices! Up till his year I'd get one going early enough, I thought, just to get attacked by squash bugs! So, then it would so hot and little rain normally that a july set was nearly impossible (for me). We have had great weather conditions this year to get those late June, early July pollinations (my June 30 is nothing but a little one on a YVD plant)! I have a July 4 set that's got me a bit excited, and I'm sure other have been there with not a lot to work with, but a strong plant. I think you need to watch the oldest leaves on your plant and allow that late growth to coincide with the end of their ability to contribute to growth. I probably went overboard on terminating everything, so I pumped up the growth product (blood meal etc), to pop out some vines. I did get a couple small ones, but that's it on that plant! Does that make any sense?
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8/26/2014 11:49:13 PM
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Iowegian |
Anamosa, IA BPIowegian@aol.com
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I remember from Ron Wallace's DVD that he quits terminating new growth around the first of September. I think that the shorter days have something to do with it. I have always left some new growth going so the plant doesn't "think" that the growing tips were all frosted off and shuts down the fruit to mature it. I have run into the problem of the new tertiaries setting new pumpkins that can take away from the main fruit. If they are too far in to reach with a knife taped to a stick, I just pop them with a BB gun so I don't pack the root system. This year reminded me why I don't use walking boards for this. If the creek floods they all float away.
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8/27/2014 11:17:34 AM
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pap |
Rhode Island
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here in new england ( rhode island) we try and have all our pollinations completed between june 18-june 28th.
by the last week in august we are pretty much done with our soil drenches and biological drenches and just mix our growth products in our tanks and water over top of plants every 5 or six days.(we like to let the water warm a day before using)
we do our final weeding at this time as well and from the last week in aug on out to picking (early oct) also allow any new growth (mostly third stage plus some weeds) to grow untouched.we never cut old leaves unless they look like they (the stalks-etc) may be rotting.even on the ground if leaves are still working they are valuable.
pap
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8/27/2014 12:32:15 PM
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BIG SHOW DOG |
Kentucky, U.S.A.
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My third growth is loaded with kins! I'm over weeding, glad I had extra time this year spend, thank goodness!
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8/29/2014 6:50:59 AM
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BiddyGoat |
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I have had a large amount of late plant growth and with it alot of fruit growth mass with small surface splits which have nicely healed into small battle scars. I crossed my 685 Janowiak with an 1185 Shenoha. I found she has a history of Wallace genetics which I found on Big Pumpkins.com, but she is white with peach blushing!! Can't quite figure this one out. I have stayed on course with the feeding program from Holland's and added alot more potassium. I'm new here. Is it normal to have so many baby pumpkins on the end of each vine? I have been removing these every week. I was weeding weekly until I saw Bubba's Secret garden! My plant went into hypermode on Advanced Nutrients and now, I am officially not weeding! Should I place a wet towel over her during the day? I do not have access to a direct water line, so I have to bring water to her. Thank you to all who respond!
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9/18/2014 5:30:56 PM
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BIG SHOW DOG |
Kentucky, U.S.A.
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Biddy, you'll get those little ones all over the place! If it has some real size (250+) I would only do a blanket for heat. I don't think more moisture will do you any good if night temps drop to 50 or below, unless it warming up to 85+.
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10/4/2014 5:41:28 PM
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Total Posts: 14 |
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