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Subject:  yet another breeding question

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mattg

Central Illinois

sorry to post yet another "which seeds to cross" question but im stumped in this area of growing. for the past 2 seasons ive grown fruit around 700 lbs and cant seem to get past that number. ive spent more money this year in hopes of a better seed but now im stumped as to which to cross. please if anyone can help me reach my 1000lb goal would be greatly appreciated! heres my seeds:

1425.5 werner
1472.5 werner (985 werner x 998 pukos)
1363 werner (985 werner x 1450 wallace)
1521.5 werner (1161 rodonis x 1308 mckie)
1306 jutras (1459 wallace x 1068 wallace)
1689 jutras (998.6 pukos x 1225.4 jutras)
1568 connolly (1566 rodonis x 1689 jutras)
1405.5 bobier (723 bobier x 1231 pukos)
1376 bobier (1231 pukos x 845 bobier)
1425 revier (985 werner x 1161 rodonis)
1294.5 revier (1428 revier x 1385 jutras)
1544.5 revier (1385 jutras x 1161 rodonis)
1579 revier (1161 rodonis x 1500.5 revier)

also does anyone know the name of the site that has the family tree of seeds database? thank you

1/31/2010 9:45:40 PM

Andy W

Western NY

1306, 1521, and 1544 are my top pics in that list.

However, if you're hitting a wall with your weights, don't look to the seeds, look at your soil.

1/31/2010 10:09:08 PM

mellowpumpkin(Josiah Brandt)

Rudolph

aggc.org
pumpkinlink.com
both are good sites

2/1/2010 12:16:09 AM

Richard

Minnesota

Going into my third year, have'nt mastered anything yet, pb of 237. I asked Chad Revier for any kind of advice, he told me it was the soil also, and stressed the soil test was very important.

2/1/2010 7:11:33 AM

nilbert

All good seeds. Ditto what Andy said. I would also add that, in terms of “which seeds to cross,” that will have no impact on the size of the fruit you're growing this season, only the genetics (possible size) of future generations.

I usually go in to a season with all the crosses mapped out, only to end up abandoning half the planned crosses when I realize I don’t have the particular pollen I’m after. So – I suppose it could impact the weight of your fruit this year if you pass up that 5 lobe on July 1st and in the process of waiting for the right males end up pollinating a 3 lobe on September 7th.

2/1/2010 8:17:01 AM

Quincy

Enumclaw, Wa

Nilbert:

Too many negative vibes. The planes are flying even only if occasionally. Where are my field seeds.

RAR

2/1/2010 12:28:40 PM

nilbert

I'm behind sending out bubbles. Big surprise for anyone who has traded with me in the past. :)

Don't worry, Bob, I got you covered.

2/1/2010 12:42:24 PM

mattg

Central Illinois

oh boy, so nilbert could you clue me in a little on the whole lobe thing, what it means. more lobes better? im going to have soil tests done as soon as i can. anyone know the correct numbers to have? i know the ph should be somewhere around 7 but what about organic matter, etc?
thanks again guys.

2/1/2010 1:40:05 PM

shazzy

Joliet, IL

matt,
do not worry about the lobe thing for right now. do more research on that on your own. as long as there are 4 lobes or more (segments to the female blossom) you should be fine. only go with a female with seeds in the lobes or deformed lobe females out of necessity like its the only one on the main to set or after pollinated, the deformed lobe pumpkin after 12 days or so is growing at a superior rate to a non deformed lobe female also on the main vine.

as far as the crosses, grow the 3 andy mentioned as the primary plants. use any of the others or your own seeds as back up plants next to the top 3 as insurance against wind, bugs, dogs, squirrels, humans, mutations, and yourself. just cut the backup plants at the base after your top 3 look good without double vining or mutating or just growing porely. or pick the back up and cut the other. crossing any of those together should do you fine for now. if i had my choice with available males on every day, i would do a 1544 x 1521 both ways and a 1306 x 1544.

as far as the 700 pound wall, are you pruning your tertiaries all the way through the season. and by pruning, if a pop up tert shows, do you snip the end off, or get in there and follow the pop to the source and whack it there?

that was my initial wall some years back. you really have to be diligent at pruning all unwanted and wasted energy as soon as it shows and get in there and prune to the source. one tertiary on the inside of a plant can grow crazy if you let it and only just keep snipping the end of what pops up. watering everyday instead of every other day helped me also. and 15 yds of composted manure or compsosted yard waste added to a 2100 sq ft patch everyear helps too. this is just a little bit of knowledge here, email me if you want to get to know some other illinois growers or join the igpga. you can also just shoot me an email for any question you have and i will do my best to steer you in the right direction. shazzyshaz@aol.com

2/1/2010 3:54:16 PM

nilbert

Sorry for the confusion, Matt. My next suggestion after your second post was going to be, "join the Illinois grower club and get to know some experienced growers in your area."

There you go, just like Shazzy says.

2/2/2010 11:50:35 AM

pap

Rhode Island

listen to andy wolf. he hit the nail on the head. its not the seed it the soil and the growers knowledge that can make the difference between 700 and 1,000 and up.

2/7/2010 9:14:07 AM

Total Posts: 11 Current Server Time: 7/17/2024 4:34:41 PM
 
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