From

Location

Message

Date Posted

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

I unfortunately didn't get my soil tested last fall. Got too busy with work. Just got it tested this week and was hoping someone would give advice. I tested each planting hole. here are the results:

SW
----------
OM:6%
P1:220ppm
P2:224ppm
K:2451ppm
Mg:673ppm
Ca:2963ppm
Na:328ppm
pH:7.4

CEC:28.1
%K:22.4
%Mg:20.0
%Ca:52.5
%H:0
%Na:5.1

S: 999+ppm
Zn:11.6ppm
Mn:14ppm
Fe:36ppm
Cu:1.8ppm
B: 2.4ppm
Soluble Salts 3.7mmhos/cm

2/9/2005 1:49:21 PM

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

NW
________
OM:4.9%
P1:226ppm
P2:251ppm
K:3392ppm
Mg:796ppm
Ca:2329ppm
Na:365ppm
pH:7.0

CEC:28.6
%K:30.4
%Mg:23.2
%Ca:40.9
%H:0
%Na:5.5

S:999+ppm
Zn:11.9ppm
Mn:14ppm
Fe:29ppm
Cu:1.8ppm
B:1.8ppm
Soluble Salts 5.6 mmhos/cm

2/9/2005 1:49:35 PM

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

SE
_________
OM:5.4%
P1:175
P2:187
K:3792ppm
Mg:941ppm
Ca:3852ppm
Na:440ppm
pH 7.7

CEC: 38.7
%K:25.1
%Mg:20.3
%Ca:49.7
%H:0
%Na:4.9

S: 999+ppm
Zn:14.3ppm
Mn:28ppm
Fe:40ppm
Cu:2.3ppm
B:2.0ppm
Soluble Salts 5.0 mmhos/cm

2/9/2005 1:49:50 PM

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

SW
___________
OG:6.6%
P1:232ppm
P2:247ppm
K:2626ppm
Mg:735ppm
Ca:6892ppm
Na:264ppm
pH:7.1

CEC:48.5
%K:13.9
%Mg:12.6
%Ca:71.1
%H:0
%Na2.4

S:999+ppm
Zn:17.2ppm
Mn:22ppm
Fe:42ppm
Cu:2.3ppm
B:3ppm
Soluble Salts 3.9 mmhos/cm

2/9/2005 1:49:58 PM

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

The high sulfer is from the gypsum I put down in October. I've put down about 800lbs of coffee grounds and have another probably 1500 lbs I was waiting to put on the patch until after the soil test. From the pH levels and the OG matter, I'm thinking I should put it all on. It seems to me that the SW spot is clearly in the best shape, but does anyone have any recommendations for getting things more in balance. I'm also curious if watering will leach the salts or if I need to do something else to get rid of the salts.

2/9/2005 1:54:04 PM

Ohio

Jmatt, I dont know much about soil, but look at the diffrence in your CA in your other 2 growing spots, I wonder if thats a big deal?

2/9/2005 4:21:35 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

Again we look for the definitive ratio of mg/ca/k ...is there really one out there ...I see the same posts way to many times... ok we all need to get the OM up..we all need the micros...but everyone questions this ratio...when is it out of whack?...at what % 's does one start tying up the other and is it soil dependent....sandy/loam/clay...stuff that leaches is ok but getting into items that don't and last a long time could ruin a patch forever....I mean it okay if you can move a patch to the south forty...bt backyarders have to be real careful and slow to adjust to much...you got one spot and one shot at this so go slow.

2/9/2005 6:06:00 PM

Phoenix, AZ

There are lots of things that others with more experience can comment on, but on a few things I have researched extensively, I will give my opinion.

Your salts, if you can, you need to get them below 2.5. With cucurbits, generally above 2.5 and you start getting reductions in yield. As a rule, 6" of good water will leach 50% of your salts below 12" of soil, 12" water gets 80%. With your sulfur so high, this will be great to also leach out some of that sodium which is the easiest of the cations to leach.

I know everyone will say get your Ph to 6.8 and you really should to get more of those micros available to your plant. the alkalinity in my soil tie up my micros very well.

Alexdad, I agree. is there going to be a problem here with so much potassium or will there be a new record set?

Ben

2/9/2005 7:09:28 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Ben & I have gone around about this & he's starting to understand how I feel.

I put very little stock in the Albrecht ratio theories that were developed in the 1950s. We have proven time after time that as long as the plant's minimum nutrient needs have been met by the soil's supply capacity, the ratios can be tweaked & changed (within a degree of reason) all over the place with no impact on crop yield or health.

I'm not suggesting that we never pay attention to ratios. There is no harm in meeting the minumums with an eye toward moving the ratios to "an ideal". But with a report like this, I wouldn't be losing any sleep over it.

I have soil test results for some hitters from ou lab & the ratio theory is literally shot full of holes by these reports.

I would focus on tilling in fall applied Maple leaves & aged manures to build organic matter. Coffee grounds do build fat earthworms & supply lots of potassium (see test results). But the amount needed to build OM isn't realistic.

2/9/2005 9:10:46 PM

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

What should I use to lower the pH in the areas where it is the highest?

Thanks,

Matt

2/10/2005 8:00:10 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Peat Moss would be slow & gradual if you can find the "non-pH adjusted" kind.

Straight 80-90% Elemental sulfer is the quickest way & don't get too nervous about soil sulfur levels. It would be a very rare occasion to see sulfur toxicity.

If you use sufur, keep the rates at 3-5 lbs per 1000 & move things in small steps.

Some really big fruit have been grown in high pH soils. Jack LaRue had a thousand+ pounder come off a pH of like 7.6 I think. So I would use a Peat/manure blend & let it fall slowly & naturally.

2/10/2005 8:17:10 AM