Soil Preparation and Analysis
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Subject: I need help with my soil test results.
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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Kano |
Mount Holly, Arkansas
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I would like to get some input on my soil test results. My garden area is 4100 sq. ft. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Soil Texture: Sandy/Silt Loam 6.3 pH 37 salinity-EC 5 CEC 50.7 Base sat 4.2 K sat 10.0 Mg sat 1.4 Na sat 111 P 168 K 710 Ca 122 Mg 33 Na 300 Fe 18 SO4-S 56 Mn 1.2 Cu 11.7 Zn 0.7 B
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2/24/2005 7:42:59 PM
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HotPumpkin (Ben) |
Phoenix, AZ
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Wowzers, check out that salinity. Are you sure that is not like 3.7? See what units they used.
Do some research on best Fe:Mn ratio. I have heard 2:1 is best, and in fact Fe being so high may throw off a few of your micros and make them less available. Others with input?
I am gonna let others take a stab at your more acidic soil and what to add for gypsum, lime, and CEC effects.
Any Organic Matter results?
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2/24/2005 8:24:50 PM
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CountyKid (PECPG) |
Picton,ON (j.vincent@xplornet.ca)
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You need to take care of the big things first. You don't have an Organic matter level here, but it likely needs attention based on the cec. Try to get some aged manure and or compost into your patch you can add a lot, 3-5 yards /1000 sq ft the first year or more. As you continue to add Organic material it will totally change the other test levels you have. It will also lower your PH over time. I would add 100-150 lbs dolomitic lime / 1000 sq ft, this spring and work it in with the manure. Your P and K levels are reasonable and will continue to improve as you add manure. If well aged manure add about 7 lbs / 1000 sqft of a balanced commercial fertilizer like 15-15-15. If newer manure you need to be careful of the Nitrogen. Add a comercial fert low in N like 0-20-20 or 6-24-24 at the same rate, then feed with water soluables/ folier fertilizers. I wouldn't screw with the micro's untill you get your OM where you want it as the addition of the manure/ compost will add some micros and dilute others. You will also need additional Calcium. You will get some of this from the lime this year. I would add the lime this year, retest next spring and plan on adding gypsom.
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2/26/2005 10:07:15 AM
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MontyJ |
Follansbee, Wv
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I would think twice about using dolomitic lime. I had the same MG level of 122 in my garden, until I used dolomitic lime. My MG levels skyrocketed to over 800 in one season. You may want to consider calcitic lime instead.
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2/26/2005 10:54:19 AM
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CountyKid (PECPG) |
Picton,ON (j.vincent@xplornet.ca)
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Dolomitic lime can contain 7 to 12 % Magnesium. MontyJ has a good point. It would be better to use Calcitic. Calcitic lime still contains some magnesium.
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2/27/2005 8:36:41 AM
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Kano |
Mount Holly, Arkansas
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I wish I could say that 37 was a typo on the salinity-EC. The report reads: 37 salinity-EC umhos/cm 1:2 water
I did this test prior to adding anything to the garden area besides leaves last fall/winter (we didn't lose all of our leaves until early December). I'm suprised the test didn't reflect any OM. I guess leaves just don't go very far once you mulch 'em up and plow 'em under
Since then I have added 7 yards of well composted manure, and more leaves. I also have lots more composted manure some peat moss to roto till into the patch. Any other suggestions?
How do I tell dolomitic lime from calcitic lime? What rate would you apply to 4100 Sq. Ft. to raise the pH from 6.3 to 6.8? Thanks for the help!
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2/27/2005 5:15:52 PM
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Stan |
Puyallup, WA
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I don't think that even weeds will grow in the level of salts that you report. Soil people will "pull their hair out" with any readings over 10!!! I didn't think that the Great Salt Lake was located Arkansas. ;>)
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3/8/2005 11:03:00 PM
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Total Posts: 7 |
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