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Deer Park, WI

Im after some convincing evidence as to why i should plant a cover crop vs using leaves/grass clippings in my fall patch prep.

Please answer this question for me as OBJECTIVELY as possible- What advantages do cover crops offer over leaf/grass mulch?

I do believe each has its place in the growth cycle of an AG, however it is dependent upon geographical location and soil-specific needs. Here in the frozen tundra of WI, I cant even get a CC to germinate before old fart winter shuts down life for six months. And by the time Im ready to plant in May, my yard grass is taller.

Upon reading up on CC's, there appear to be two types: grains and legumes. the grains, such as ryes and wheats server two major fuctions- prevention of erosion via rain and wind. Other benefits are increased OM upon tilling and increased nutrient cycling. The grains are preferred in colder climates, as they tend to tolerate the chilly weather a bit. The legumes offer the same benefits as the grains, with the added ability to fix nitrogen. Now, if you live in a climate where you can get a legume up in the fall and again in the spring, there's a definate advantage here.

Unfortunately we cannot have the best of both worlds- planting a CC and applying massive amounts of leaves/grass. Leaf mulches offer organic matter, even WITHOUT being tilled in. If left undisturbed, soil microorganisms grow out of the soil surface and pull decomposing leaf/grass material back into the ground. Additionlly, the mulches prevent weed growth, decrease soil compaction, and offer a number of other benefits.

So what am i missing here? CC's seem to be quite popular among AG growers. Is there something about them that magically makes big pumpkins grow bigger? I dont believe the majority of AG growers suffer major erosion problems.

10/19/2006 4:53:52 PM

San Jose garysand@pacbell.net

the only thing I think you may be missing is when the roots penitrate deep in the soil, it will help your pkin roots do the same

10/19/2006 8:03:51 PM

Long Island,New York

Wife hates looking at dirt all winter.

10/19/2006 9:47:50 PM

Rexburg, Idaho (brianchristensenmd@gmail.com )

Sorry no definate evidence here.
But my decision is easy. Its too cold in this part of Idaho to do a cover crop unless I rotate crops and do not grow pumpkins in the patch for a year. I've tried rye and even if planted on Sept. 1st still doesn't get 2" tall.
Also tried planting a cover crop in the spring around the periphery of the plot and tilling it under as the pumpkin plant grew out toward it. That taught me a lesson. Good plants in the wrong place or at the wrong time are no different then weeds.

10/20/2006 12:14:17 AM

Deer Park WA

We plant a mix of CC, Winter Rye, Austrian Peas, hairy vetch, Triticala (sP), in the fall after the patch is cleaned up and let it go for one season (rotate the patch)in the fall prior to the next spring the dry and mature cover crop is plowed in along with loads of manure and compost. In the early spring the patch is agian growing with the cover crop seeds that were plowed in the previous fall. we then use a cultivator (not a tiller!) and turn the soil. After using this method for the past 3 seasons we have the best soil I have ever had and do not need to fertilize "in season" grew an 1112.5, and a 822.4 this season. I realize not everyone has enough land to rotate their patches but if you do try this method and grow em big!

10/20/2006 12:17:48 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Some claim that beneficial fungi & bacteria will inoculate certain CC roots to the cucurbit growers later advantage. Inoculants are cheap for those who don't bother with a CC.

Probably the greatest advantage to a CC is holding the earth down. Otherwise the organic materials can be readily had elsewhere.

Small area competitive growing is a much different animal than large scale agriproduction. I say nix the CC & add large amounts of better amendments instead.

10/20/2006 1:21:09 AM

Cornwall UK.(50N 5W)300ft.

I'm trying a legume cc this year for the first time I only really want to add N as I already have enough of everything else so it should keep my om levels up without bringing in new p & k like brought in amendments would.
It will also give me incentive to water the polytunnel all winter,last year with bear earth it got bone dry which is not good for soil life I think.

10/20/2006 3:24:42 AM

Alex, IN

One advantage to growing winter rye is after it is tilled under in the spring it acts as a weed growth inhibitior!

10/20/2006 7:25:13 AM

Deer Park, WI

Thank you all for the insight, very helpful indeed.

10/20/2006 9:00:20 AM

Valid point Mikkal,,I have researched the positive and negatives of using winter rye for a couple of years, that same "inhibitor" can spill over to many different species of plants and I don't think they all have been researched yet.

With that in mind I have quit using winter rye as a cc for any vegetable sites here in my gardens. It would appear to me that since it does work as an inhibitor on some "following" crops if may not be the best choice for AG's,,,,

Since any cc here has to be planted b4 Sept 15th in order to have any chance of valuable production I agree with your thinking Joe that unless you have enough ground to rotate patches,,,,incorporation of fall additives then applying a "mulch" may be our only option here.

What to do with that mulch in the spring depends on where your soil( and critters) were when you applied in the fall,,,I ultimately am hoping to get to the point of "no till" but will wait for my spring tests to make that decision.

10/20/2006 9:00:55 AM