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Cedar Lake, IN.

I'm just trying to get a feel of how AG growers feel about "Microbe Testing" of soil. The testing of:

11/25/2009 4:39:32 PM

Cedar Lake, IN.

Sorry about that. The testing of: Total Bacteria, Total Fungi, Active Bacteria, Active Fungi, Protozoa (numbers of Flagellates,Amoebae,Ciliates)and Nematodes?

11/25/2009 4:49:47 PM

Cedar Lake, IN.

Okay, I got my test results back. It all looks good except;
Total Fungi and Total Bacteria are out of balance as well as a low count of Nematodes. I need to double the total beneficial Fungi. I need to increase the amount of Nematodes by 4 times.

Here's where I need your help. What do I do to increase beneficial Fungi and Nematodes?

Thanks in advance,I need help on this one.

12/3/2009 7:18:37 PM

Roselle, IL GJGEM@sbcglobal.net

A nice big load of compost would help

12/3/2009 7:38:04 PM

Cedar Lake, IN.

What kind of compost? I've been using dairy cow manure, composted. If I keep this up won't it increase my Bacteria?

12/3/2009 7:49:31 PM

Cedar Lake, IN.

George, I just looked at your diaries and I must say your doing something right.

12/3/2009 7:59:11 PM

Long Island,New York

Time
I imagine that total microbes and total fungi etc is based upon the numbers per % organics.....if you add tons of leaves the % of microbes goes down significantly until the populations increase...i imagine (a guess actually) nematodes multiply slower or in different seasons than fungi. What you might be seeing is the reason why we use molassis...to get a rapid surge in microbe populations to bring them in line with organic contents in our soil mixes. Molassis perhaps, and time is what you need.
OR: the microbe lab sells beneficial fungi/nematoses or is owned/sponsored by a company that does. What lab?

12/4/2009 5:50:12 AM

Cedar Lake, IN.

The lab name is "Oregon food web". I understand what your getting at. The reason I had this done was, I believed that I had too many Bacteria and not enought Fungi.
Also total bacteria count is 1702(ug/g)expected range 175 to 300.
Fungi total count is 863 (ug/g) expected range 175 to 300.

Nematodes is 3.22 (#/g) expected range 10 to 20.

Again this was my first year growing AGs. I'm still learning. However, after learning a few things I believe that I created this problem. I wanted to see if what I thought was true or not. It looks as if I need to quit feeding the baceria and start feeding Fungi. So with that what do I add in the soil to help Fungi and Neatodes?

12/4/2009 8:01:31 AM

Roselle, IL GJGEM@sbcglobal.net

The place I get the compost has it tested.... It listed fungi, nematodes, bacteria counts. I did not pay too much attention to the numbers.I don't think anybody can give you a correct amount to have in your soil... If you are already using compost, you should be fine. Some fungicides will be harsher on your "good" fungi population as well.
If you are not already using it, add Mycorrhizal fungi to your spring planting prep.

12/4/2009 9:14:39 AM

Cedar Lake, IN.

LIpumpkin and George, thanks for your input. It seems I need to add a more woody type compost to what I have. Also due to gardening practices I will need to add Mycorrhizal fungi and a few other things which I'll purchase through Hollands.
I must say I do get some great advice here on big pumpkins. I just have a thick skull, it takes a little time to sink in.
Now on to insect control, etc. that won't hurt the soil food web...

12/5/2009 9:12:13 AM

Colorado Springs, CO

The fact that you have a measured quantity of any, if not all, of the typical coopertaive microbial lifeforms in your garden ought be enough good news to calm your concerns. Specific amounts, or some absolute balance is splitting hairs unnecessarily. What you surely want to see next spring when the ground has completely thawed....is earhtworms. Nature has a wonderful way of creating balance if organic matter is present and you keep the harsher chemical pesticides and herbicides far from your garden.

Feed those micro-critters and foster their reproduction by adding dry or liquid molasses, horticultural cornmeal kelp meal, and working that into the top 3 to 4 inches. Apply some hyrolyzed liquid fish as well.

As for insect control, you might not have to think about that for another 4 months. If you want a decent preventative control that can work when you are not out there looking at your garden in those earliest days of the warming spring....consider working some diatomaceous earth into those top 3 to 4" of soils once that depth as thawed in the spring and then apply another fine dusting over that surface.

If you are not finding such products or substances in local stores you can go to soilmender.com and get them there.

12/6/2009 6:54:14 PM

Cedar Lake, IN.

I know I'm splitting hairs. The BIG BOYS and GIRLS are doing something different than every body else.

12/6/2009 10:14:04 PM

Bloomington, IN

I thought diatomaceous earth loses its effectiveness when it gets wet, like I would expect it to in the soil. How would it work then?

12/7/2009 12:46:11 AM