From

Location

Message

Date Posted

long Island

PPM
OM-----------------5.1
Nitro NO3-N---------0
Phoshorus----471 VH
Potassium K--438 VH
Magn Mg------436 VH
Calcium Ca---3113 VH
Sulfur SO4-S-------21

Cat. Saturation %
Pot. K----------5,5
Magnesium Mg--- 7.9
Calcium Ca----- 76.7
ph-------------- 7.4
CEC------------20.3

Is it possible I have o nitrogen. I have had two labs conform this.
My ph looks high. What can I do about that?
Everything is in the very high range. Is that good or bad?

Please help.

5/4/2011 9:04:58 PM

valparaiso, in

My nitrogen was also low. I just added some ammendments to bring it up for the plants, and then will fertilize as the plants grow.

5/5/2011 2:28:42 AM

long Island

It appears that I don't need to add anything except nitrogen.

What is the best way to do that?

Also, I think my PH is to high.

What is the best way to lower that?

5/5/2011 12:17:21 PM

Colorado

elemental sulfur 7lbs for 1000square feet.will work for 2 to 3 years

5/5/2011 1:48:22 PM

long Island

Thanks for the info

elemental sulfur? I have never seen that. Is it for the nitrogen or the PH?

When I go to the Garden Center, what should I look for.

Also, what do you think about dried blood.

5/5/2011 3:18:34 PM

Colorado

Some garden centers may carry the sulfur-its for the ph.

5/5/2011 5:36:59 PM

long Island

Thank you for the reply.

What do you think about the rest of the test results?

5/5/2011 7:07:15 PM

Upa Creek, Mo

Where did you get it tested? I got my results today from A&L and my N went from 5 PPM to 2 PPM which is impossible. I added a bunch of bloodmeal, 6yards black gold compost and 3 yards aged manure. All the compost was tested by StL compost beforehand and had plenty of nitrogen.

I also increased my potassium from 54 to 1604 PPM which is around a 3000% increase.

5/5/2011 8:24:50 PM

valparaiso, in

I added cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, soybean meal, kelp meal, and feather meal to help with the nitrogen.

5/6/2011 12:51:03 AM

Northern Cambria, Pa.

Forget about testing for nitrogen. Most soil tests do not even include an N test. Nitrogen is very transitory and changes greatly from day to day and even during the day. N is always low in the spring when the soil is cold but will quickly increase as soon as the soil warms and the bacteria become active. Abundant rains like we have been having also quickly leach out available N. Just pay it no mind right now. When your plants start to vine out, pay close attention to leaf size and color. If the leaves are small and pale, then you may want to add some N but for now don't worry about it.

5/6/2011 8:50:31 AM

long Island

I used A&L for the test. I also had Umas test done3 at the same time. I wish I could understand what everything means but I don't. That is why I am so very grateful for everyone's help on this.

I will forget about the nitrogen for now as suggested by "lcheckon"

I will add some sulfur as suggested by "cojoe" I plan to use about 2 LBS. of the sulfur because I have an extremely small patch. Its only about 300 sq ft at the most.

I am assuming that I should just leave every thing else alone.

5/6/2011 5:04:09 PM

long Island

This is the results from both labs on the same bucket of soil extracted from the patch for testing.

A&L Test results Umas test results
PPM
OM-----------------5.1 6.8
Nitro NO3-N---------0 0
Phoshorus----471 VH 39
Potassium K--438 VH 448
Magn Mg------436 VH 333
Calcium Ca---3113 VH 2142
Sulfur SO4-S-------21
Cat. Saturation %
Pot. K----------5,5 7.9
Magnesium Mg--- 7.9 18.7
Calcium Ca----- 76.7 73.5
ph-------------- 7.4 7.5
CEC------------20.3 13.1

5/6/2011 5:16:30 PM

Johnston, Iowa

Hey Wally, I can identify with your confusion after getting very different results from two labs A&L and Midwest.

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=153566

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=154269

I would go with the UMass results. Add some nitrogen, and Sulfur, as previously suggested.

5/7/2011 1:06:34 AM