Soil Preparation and Analysis
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Subject: Soil Test
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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| MOpumpkins |
Springfield, Missouri
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I got my soil test back yesterday. Phosphorus is way high, but other than that what are your opinions?
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11/7/2013 12:57:16 PM
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| MOpumpkins |
Springfield, Missouri
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Sorry I forgot to post the link.
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=211694
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11/7/2013 1:45:04 PM
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| Ludwig Ammer |
Eurasia
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...any covercrop now?
If not, you could add beet pulp now together with something like this as a drench before you work with the rotor tiller: http://www.lebosol.de/produkte/de/Lebosol%C2%AE-Robustus:::162.html
I´ll seed oat in March. If you do so, please add urea in early April.
When you set out pumpkins, only cut a small area of oat and till it. The oat around the pumpkin makes a good micro climate. Deep cutting the oat up only where the vines already can be burried. Lodging oat does not hurt your pumpkins, when you cut it the next day.
With so much nutrients in soil, i would fertilize only foliar until June and make a soil test late in May for your desicion what eventually to add to the top of your soil or drench or fertigate.
Basically you have the best conditions to do all with foliar fertilizers alone next year, if you don´t grow cover crops now or in late winter.
Please accept that these constructive suggestions are individualized and not from the primer.
If you already grow cover crop now, we may talk about many other options.
I studied soil sciences and plant nutrition with agriculture.
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11/7/2013 4:32:20 PM
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| Ludwig Ammer |
Eurasia
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sorry: not Deep cutting!
Keep cutting the oat...
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11/7/2013 4:34:25 PM
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| Condo* |
N.c.
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After googling and reading A Soil Study on Atlantic Giant Pumpkins by Don Chambers
This is what I would do. Handyhomegrown once said "If you want good calcium uptake, don't be a moron add boron! If the recommended level of boron is around 1 to 1.5 ppm and you decided to shoot for 1.2 ppm and your current level is 0.7 ppm then you would be looking to add 0.5 ppm or times 2 for 1 pound per acre. If 20 mule team borax is 11% boron, 10 pounds of borax would give you 1.1 pounds of boron. So you would need 10 pounds of borax per acre or 10 pounds divided by 43,000 equals 0.00023 pounds per square foot. So for every 1000 square foot of patch you would need 0.23 pounds of borax. A fuzz less than 1/2 cup per 1000 square feet. Dissolved in water and sprayed evenly across your patch.
I would also push the patch towards a ph of 7 and add magnesium as well by adding 15 pounds of dolomite lime per 1000 square feet.
Might as well get your sulphur up around 50 ppm and add 15 pounds of Epsom salt per 1000 square feet. You need 30 ppm iron to get up to 50 ppm iron. If you are not afraid of possibly making your worms mad use iron sulphate. If your iron sulphate is 20% iron, use 7 pounds per 1000 square feet. With all that sulphur you should probably add 10 more pounds of dolomite lime, so 25 pounds of dolomite lime per 1000 square feet.
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11/8/2013 1:13:09 PM
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| Ludwig Ammer |
Eurasia
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...fault Condor, more faults Condor.
Please think about my beet pulp pellets with much Ca in it and the fine fertilizer Ca/B.
Your Mg fertilization is false like your sulfur advices.
There is an enormous amount of iron in my sugar beet pulp:
http://www.alpinetgheep.com/files/pdb_datenblatt_biopellets_n105.pdf
Duncan Logan is a student and should think about my ideas.
You could also think about my personally practiced iron-sulfate adjunct to compost tea.
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11/8/2013 2:19:16 PM
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| Total Posts: 6 |
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