Soil Preparation and Analysis
|
Subject: I would appreciate any input on my soil analysis!
|
|
From
|
Location
|
Message
|
Date Posted
|
blitzburgh |
Pa
|
Trying to read up on what i need to do, any advise would be welcome! This is my first test ever and wasnt sure how it would turn out especially seeing that i added a bunch of stuff this fall.
organic matter-12.9 nitrogen-5 phosphorus(weak bray?)ppm-148 phosphours(NaHco-P) 71(very high) potassium ppm-71(very high) magnesium ppm-345 calcium-1602(low) sodium ppm-32(very low) sulfer-55(high) zinc-3.4 manganese-104(very high) iron-34(high) copper-0.9 boron-0.9
ECe-2.2 CEC-14.2 PH7.7
am i missing anything(haha) if anyone could give me some advise im all ears, im finding this more interesting as i go and enjoy learning more. thanks again.
|
11/22/2003 9:33:19 PM
|
Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
|
That pH is high & the Calcium should come up.
It is going to depend on the texture of your soil how much sulfur will be required to knock the pH back down to 6.7 (or one full point). Are soils in your part of PA naturally that high? Or was this soil over limed?
Assuming they're normally high, You'll use about 3 - 4 Lbs of Elemental Sulfur per 100 sq ft tilled in. 3 lbs on sandy soil. 4 lbs on heavier clay soils.
If the soil was overlimed, I'd wait another month & do another test (just the cheaper "pH only" test is fine). The addition of manures & other organic materials combined with time & rain will bring the pH back down. The desired goal would be to see it back under 7.4 or 7.2 by planting time.
The lower calcium levels can be brought up with Gypsum. Add 10-20 lbs per 100 sq. ft. also tilled in.
Let us remember that even though Gypsum is Calcium *Sulfate*, the sulfate form of sulfur is not a soil acidifer & won't lower the pH in this or any other case to a considerable degree.
Lowering soil pH is best done with 80% elemental sulfur. It can be found in powdered form (miserable to work with) or in a split pea pelleted form. Both work equally well but the pellets are more user friendly.
You can also use aluminum & ferrous iron sulfate which lower soil pH & may be useful in certain situations.
Hope this helps
Steve
|
11/23/2003 8:18:08 AM
|
blitzburgh |
Pa
|
Thanks Tremor, i appreciate the adivse! im not sure if the soil has been over limed as my dad took care of that this year. i had thought of adding the gypsum as well but i dont know if i can at this point. the wet weather and what little snow we have got has made it impossible to till in anything. i also have my cover crop in.
thanks again for the info and to anyone else that might be reading this HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!
Rob
|
11/27/2003 10:20:05 AM
|
Stan |
Puyallup, WA
|
Blitzburg, What type of soil do you have? Loam....Sandy Loam....Sand ....Silty Clay....Clay?
|
11/28/2003 1:58:56 PM
|
docgipe |
Montoursville, PA
|
Rob....Steve is right on for you. Gypsum and sulfur can go on in the spring. It is better added in the fall but I know what your rain situation has been. It will also lower your salts a little. This is good. You really look pretty darn good. If you added lots of manures and leaves the PH may come down a little but I still favor Steves advise to you. Placed early your PH should react by blossom time or at least be headed in the right direction.
I would consider strongly getting an organic ballanced fertilizer for spring addition...no hotter than 5-2-3 as a slow release fertilizer. I think your patch is ready to grow a nice one. Are you? :)
|
11/28/2003 8:01:38 PM
|
blitzburgh |
Pa
|
i think my garden is heading in the right direction anyway! all i need now is to find the right seed and alot of luck! thanks again steve for the input! and dwaine, thanks for all the info. i have been reading and learing the benifits of organic garding and it has been great and i hope to gain more knowledge as i go.
rob
|
12/1/2003 10:02:39 PM
|
Total Posts: 6 |
Current Server Time: 9/3/2024 7:13:29 AM |