Soil Preparation and Analysis
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Subject: soil test results
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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moondog |
Indiana
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Here we go, Tell me what I should do to grow 2500#ers LOL pH 6.8 Total exchange capacity (M E) 12.04 Humus content % 3.4 Base saturation % Calcium 57.68 Magnesium 26.92 Potassium 6.67 Sodium 1.12 Other bases (variable) 4.61 Exchangable hydrogen 3.00
Nitrogen lbs/acre ENR value 84 Sulfate - s value found 54 ppm Phosphates as (p205) value found 790 lbs/acre +290 Calcium lbs/acre 2778 -497 Magnesium lbs/acre 778 +431 Potassium lbs/acre 626 +156 Sodium lbs/acre 62 +7
Boron ppm .89 Iron ppm 312 Manganese ppm 159 Copper ppm 3.70 Zinc ppm 42.30
Suggestions for 1000 sq ft Pre-plant incorporated 1.25 lbs Urea 46 lbs Gypsum Boron 14.3% 5.5 oz Copper sulfate 23% 3.5 oz At planting 5.75 lbs Amsulf When vines run and at bloom 3 lbs Calcium Nitrate
Im adding Horse manure and sawdust mixture as I get it, So I will probably need to raise the preplant nitrogen. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Steve
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12/21/2003 9:47:48 AM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Steve,
pH is correct so no lime. You still need to get that calcium up into the 75-89% range. So Gysum (Calcium Sulfate) @ 50 lbs/M tilled in will get you up there.
That still leaves the Potash a little low. So either Potassium sulfate or chloride at 1lm/K/M should do.
Muriate of Ppotash @ 1lb divided by .60 = 1.66 lbs/M Sulfate of Potash @ 1lb divided by .52 = 1.92 lbs/M
I don't know about that much N pre-plant unless the sawdust is going in heavy.
Steve
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12/21/2003 12:35:29 PM
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moondog |
Indiana
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Tremor Where can I get the boron and copper sulfate? The suggestions for the nitrogen were from the soil test lab. I thought I might need to raise it a little because of the sawdust. Steve
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12/21/2003 12:50:34 PM
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moondog |
Indiana
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Another thought: The sawdust is soaked with horse urine would this also be a form of nitrogen?? Steve
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12/21/2003 1:03:01 PM
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moondog |
Indiana
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One more time /M = what?? please excuse my ignorance. Steve
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12/21/2003 1:04:51 PM
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pumpkinpicker |
Ann Arbor, Mi
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m = 1000
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12/21/2003 2:17:18 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Boron for agriculture purposes is usually Solubor. But if 50 lbs sounds like a bit more than needed, then go to the local pharmacy. Boric acid is sold in 1 lb continers. More expensive this way, but better than having 30 or 40 lbs going to waste.
Copper sulfate is being regulated in some states. The mrs wantsthis computer. I'll check the registration in Indiana on the other computer & update later.
Steve
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12/21/2003 6:46:50 PM
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docgipe |
Montoursville, PA
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One of the more important questions at hand is: If I elect to use this in my patch will it feed the living biological side and cause it to become stronger in my favor? Secondly, from my considerations could I get better living biological support from just adding more manures, leaves, grass and other products of compost? Finally if I must be warned not to use to much why should I use any?
The major need I see in this patch soil test is humus build up which produces the humates and humic acids to bring most of the other ills around to a level of no concern. Yes the PH needs to be up but with the base of humus being so low it may not make to much difference to crank it up. As I see this report natural building with lots of manures and such will be the major fix up of the patch.
In extremely rare instances you may need to doctor with things like are being suggested but it is really quite unusual to do so with any assurance what so ever it is really needed.
Treating the soil to gobs of materials that were once actually living is usually a better way to help the patch build a stronger biological base of support for your healthy plants growing from within it. The trend seems to be leaning heavily on building the biological side of the patch. When this is done reasonably well most if not all the other needs get fullfilled too.
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12/21/2003 9:40:46 PM
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docgipe |
Montoursville, PA
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Sorry I screwed up just a little. The PH is OK....Insert the word Calcium. Since this is not a negative It should be done but with the expectation that the total balance of the biological machine will have to get into action before the total goodness of any building will show up.
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12/21/2003 9:44:52 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Valid points by Doc. Manure is a good source of boron. Copper is rarely deficient especially in humus rich soil.
But if you must fix copper in a hurry, I did just check the registration status of MICROFLO's Nu-Cop. It's a sprayable fungicide (77% Cupric Hydroxide) labeled for use on Pumpkins for Powdery Mildew, Angular Leaf Spot, & Downey Mildew. We sell it in 10 lb bags. Not cheap at $3.00 per pound, but when used in the summer spray program, copper levels do increase & deficiencies won't occurr.
Steve
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12/21/2003 10:36:13 PM
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docgipe |
Montoursville, PA
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For all to see.........Another thing that has to be considered in this report showing humus being low is the fact that humus holds and distributes water. Yes you can run water to this patch but it will not hold it very well. Therefore you might surmise correctly that you are leaching goodness out as you try to maintain the volume of water the pumpkin really wants. It is entirely possible that oxygen deprivation could be a factor because of to much water passing by or worse yet puddling just under your plant roots. Inground created gases may have a difficult time finding their way out. Again that lowly constantly working earthworm has little to support itself in. ...It is really somewhat unbelievable at first just how important good humus can be to the biological side of the patch. Even if your are using modest amounts of synthetic fertilication the humus will reduce the need for as much because it will catch and hold it to some extent.
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12/22/2003 11:52:51 AM
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moondog |
Indiana
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Im adding as much organic matter as i can get it will just take time. Hauling it is the biggest problem. I just want to get the patch ready for this year, it will get better with time! Steve
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12/22/2003 3:41:57 PM
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docgipe |
Montoursville, PA
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Steve....you bet 'cha it will. We aren't picking on 'ya. Just trying to help and have others see with you. We all learn together.
It's easy for me. I've been pumping the goodies to my ground for nearly half a century.
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12/22/2003 9:02:44 PM
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moondog |
Indiana
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Tremor Ok this is the recommended additions of copper and boron (Boron 14.3% 5.5 oz Copper sulfate 23% 3.5 oz) per 1000 sq ft. I found 100% copper sulfate and some boric acid, I dont know the concentrate of the boric acid. how much copper sulfate and boric acid should i add?? per 1000 sq ft? Steve
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3/2/2004 10:21:10 AM
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Total Posts: 14 |
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