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Rhode Island

i realize that their are some differences between growing giant green and growing giant pumpkins. i have a few questions for those experienced greenie growers here on bp.

1. i have heard that pollinating is harder for green squash? if so what do you do to ensure a successful start?

2. any diffrence in soil make up from pumpkin to green
squash? same ph? same balance? same nutrient
requirements?

3. is the abort rate higher or lower than pumpkins? if
higher what do you do to better your chances?

4. are there any diseases that green squash are more
inclined to have? if so, what do you do to combat them?

5. what is the largest daily weight gain for your grn sq?

6. do grn squash follow the same growth patterns as giant
pumpkins? is the growth cycle as long as for pumpkins?

7. lastly --- if you could only plant one grn seed? what
would it be? and why?

thanks

pap

11/28/2012 10:48:32 AM

Lexington, Ky

Pap, I must admit that I find it odd attempting to answer your questions...LOL.

I have grown green in the South for 6 consecutive years, one over 1,000.

I have grown the common genetic lines that others seem to struggle pollinating...I havn't experienced any problems, nearly all of my controlled pollinations have taken. Perhaps my technique is a little better?

My squash plots have had minimal amendments, about 1/3 of what I use for AG's and I have never pushed one with ferts during the growing cycle. I'm just trying to sneak up on it. I grow in both clay and sandy loam, my best results come from the clay patches. I did have a monster in a new loam patch this year but blew the rear out.

My 1,000 pounder from two years ago was watered heavily, the big one this year, hardly at all...go figure. This years big one has 1450 in it's background, not sure if that means anything though regarding water.

My squash abort rate is actually better than what I experience with AG's. I do start shading just as soon as I see a female though...might be overkill? This may explain my good pollination rates?

11/28/2012 11:43:32 AM

Lexington, Ky

Disease pressure about the same but only one foamer in six years, ironically that plant gave me the 1,000 pounder. SVB's not as prevalent. They do like my squash but they seem to prefer the AG's as their primary target for egg laying. I use identical spray progams for AG & squash. My squash seem to get PM a little sooner but it's easier to eliminate for some reason.

Weight gains for me....10-15 per day for 7 to 10 days. Once in a while I see 15-20 for two or three days only. The rest of the cycle...zzzzzzz...3-10 per day but they just keep on growing until harvest. I don't have the brass to let them go into October because the cantaloping and deep ribs scare the hell out of me.

I terminate very little since I have plenty of room, a side vine here and there but I keep the main and all sides after the fruit. Probably 1,200 to 1,500 sq ft of plant in the end.

I would plant (replant) the 895 Hester because it scared me the least in the later stages, was dark green, went a little heavy and continued to grow normally after basal crown surgery (foamer).

My results seem to buck the trend regarding pollination, aborts and growing big in hot weather. Matter of fact, I didn't read about pollination problems until my third year, I was surprised that others were having problems with the same lines that I was working with. It's all in the head?!

11/28/2012 11:43:42 AM

Indiana

Grow the old stellpflug line, it pollinates better.

11/28/2012 1:32:28 PM

St. Thomas Ontario

I hesitate to make blanket statements but if I were to make one, this would be it...High temperature can Kibosh your squash!

Probably most know pollen operates best in a fairly narrow temperature range (55-80F or 13-28C)...it's not an accident flowers open early and are pretty much done by noon.

Problem or variablility comes in when your fruit is exposed to radiant energy.

Using an infrared lamp and several squash varieties there has surfaced some interesting results.

Within an hour of exposure surface and internal temperaures between different colored fruit had increased 10-20 degrees Celcius (50-68F) above ambient air temperature...most of us could not live through that type of fever.

Imagine placing your hand on a dark green car and then a light yellow one on a sunny day...feel the difference? That type of radiant heat gathering can bump off your egg size hopeful pretty quick.

There are of course other factors which can contribute to aborts...but temperature is one variable i watch closely.

Gota go...some of my other 'pollinations' are crying;)

All the best

11/28/2012 5:32:01 PM

Rhode Island

thanks guys

pap

1/7/2013 9:37:36 AM