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Sophia WV

I have done several and have one that works better than the others.

8/28/2006 7:34:27 PM

well robert,, I'll show ya mine if you show me yours !!

8/28/2006 7:59:57 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

C'mon Rob....if you tell us your recipe...I will ask the VanHooks(James)...to spill the recipe for the GreenGremlinJuice...(special Kentucky recipe)!!!!!!!!!!! Peace, Wayne
PS...No guarantees that James will give up the secret recipe...but I will ask.

8/28/2006 11:22:59 PM

Sophia WV

Ok here goes one cup fish 2 cup kelp 1 cup mollases 6 cups worm casting 1 cup bat guano and 6 cups alfalfa pellets 2 tablespoons of baking soda I use this for a 50 gallon batch

8/29/2006 8:32:32 AM

President - GPC

How long till this is done brewing? Use of any air?

8/29/2006 9:26:55 AM

Wood River, IL (kennyw_49@yahoo.com)

Robert
Where do you get the Bat droppings? If the question should be how do you get them. I'm not sure I want to know.
Thanks,
Kenny

8/29/2006 9:28:44 AM

ENGLAND

Some, maybe most, Hydroponic Supply Stores sell Guano. IT STINKS

8/29/2006 9:33:16 AM

Wood River, IL (kennyw_49@yahoo.com)

I found it! It's just amazing what you can find on the world wide web!

8/29/2006 9:37:10 AM

Coventry R.I.

hi robert, with all that inger, what the size of your pumpkinks. lol

8/29/2006 9:51:07 AM

Sophia WV

I get bat guano from spray and grow and I use a livewell pump brew for 24 to 36 hrs

8/29/2006 12:47:49 PM

President - GPC

Do you foliar spray with it... still how long till the brews done? Found the droppings at the local nursery...

8/29/2006 1:41:39 PM

my end of the deal robert,,,,lol

2 cups of alfalfa meal
2 cups of worm castings
2 cups of molasases
25 gallon batch,,with air,,36 to 48 hours temperature relative,,dilute with 25 gallons water,,,add kelp or fish if desired,,,sprayed foliar

I've added bone meal ocassionaly and rotate the alfalfa every other batch,,,not rocket science here but it works for me

8/29/2006 2:42:04 PM

Mill Bay, British Columbia

Nice one Dan, I've been trying the following;

4 cups alfalfa meal
4 cups worm castings
1 cup molasses
1 cup fish
1/2 cup kelp (very concentrated stuff)
calcium nitrate - couple handfulls
little bit of Agro-K Symbex
Agro-K micronutrient mix
beer while mixing
more beer during application
more beer hoping for larger gains

8/30/2006 10:14:47 PM

Ontario, Canada.

Glen LOL..........more beer!

8/31/2006 7:36:44 AM

Coventry R.I.

that what i was missing, beer!

9/1/2006 7:08:39 AM

Butler, Ohio

Here's what I been using...give or take a little...

10 cups Alfalfa pellets
6 Cups worm castings
1 cup fish
1 cup Bonemeal
1 Quart molasses
Just a little bit of Nutri-Cal

Then put as much air as possible to er and let er rip. I've had it don in as fast as 18 hours and as long as 48 hours, It just depends on the temperature. I've found that using warmer water at the beginning seems to help things along as well. Next year I would like to try using spring water. Our family has a small spring fed pond at the old farm and I think that might be better. We'll see.

9/1/2006 8:42:09 PM

Montoursville, PA

A three hundred watt fish tank heater will bring up and hold 75 - 80 degrees in a barrel of brew. Turn the heater on a day early or use heated water at start to find the finish at about 18 hours.

Those fish tank heaters are not up to being hit with a canoe paddle or having the owner not follow two simple instructions on the packaging. Otherwise they work fine.

9/2/2006 1:38:05 PM

Montoursville, PA

Surprises me that no one is using his or her own compost as a part of these excellent teas. When patches are being developed with biological teas, of this value a bit, of your own is indeed an important consideration. In this manor you build your native biology and offer the best, of both worlds.

If you do not have a local compost pile, to work from, a cup of your own top soil is a good equal, in the mix. Your top soil contains all the goodness that you have created. It seems to me that all of the above teas would indeed go aerobic in eighteen to thirty six hours.

Kudos, for your fine discoverys and use of teas. I would assume that any patch treated this way would just get better as each year, of development continues.

When you, your patch, the seed and the weather all come together excellence, in growth, will not be long or far away.
Keep up the good work.

12/2/2006 8:47:31 PM

wisconsin rapids WI

Just out of curiosity would not using soil out of your patch in the tee then foliar spraying onto to your plant help spread pathogens from the soil to the

12/2/2006 10:16:32 PM

wisconsin rapids WI

to the plant

12/2/2006 10:17:32 PM

Connecticut

My thought is that if you use your own soil you will only be multiplying microbes that you already have. By using other compost you are adding new biology to your soil.

Just my thoughts, hope it helps.

12/2/2006 10:51:17 PM

Rhode Island

i have a secret formula that we use. its called "soil soup"
and i purchase it from "the soil soup company"

the formula was developed by people that should know more than me regarding the right additives for maximum results.

i buy their worm castings by the bag along with a gallon of their nutrient solution.
this solution gets mixed in with the water just before the bag of castings is submerged.

air forced into the water brings the brew to completion in approximately 36 hrs ( depending on outside air temp )

i make 25 gallons at a time and use it all the same day its done brewing. tea should not be left sitting around for long.

pap

12/3/2006 1:21:39 AM

Follansbee, Wv

I strongly disagree that a cup of top soil is a good equal to compost in a tea recipe. For one thing, the microbe population in top soil is too small to multiply to the large numbers needed quickly enough to be of any benifit. Secondly, the compost supplies a very necessary ingredient...food...for the microbes. Even if you add molasses, mixing top soil with water will simply give you sweet tasting mud.

I use a home-made recipe similar to others:

1 lb. castings
2 cups alfalfa
5 gallons water

Like Pap, I generally make 25 gallons or more at a time, but I brew for 72 hours.

Sorry, no molasses in my tea. I may begin adding some for use on the pumpkins only, but I haven't decided yet.
As far as castings go, well, you know where I get mine.

12/3/2006 11:04:33 AM

Montoursville, PA

Most compost advisorys including those of Dr. Ingram suggest native soil be a part of the compost pile and consequently all teas.

Seldom does anyone advise dragging in new biology if native bases can be used. Commercial casts and compost are available for those who do not know how, do not have the materials, or have little time or space to store local supplies.

Most advisory articles highy advise the use of all local...meaning from your property materials, to build compost. A good supplier will tell you this and help you understand the routes and processes to success. The so called secrets are only held by those who want your money.

Proper amounts of carbs namely molasses will be totally consumed by the bacteria, in the process of composting as well as making aerobic teas. Placing carbs in any tea serves the same bacteria booster and feeding function. It is one of least expensive ways, best biological ways to boost your teas. It is the largest part of any purchased booster liquer with trace minerals and sometimes a few vitamins, being the ballance of the liquer....The only reason it is secret is because the maker wishes to mystify and pretend superior status, best of all, literally meaning very commonly known and available components.

The entire process of making compost teas of all types was given to every attendening grower at Niagara two years ago. All of the secrets were clearly identified and presented. No one has ever mentioned that fact to me so I get a pretty good idea how much of that knowledge was absorbed and used.
To this day nearly three years later some attendees keep saying they just can't find any good and fine compost or tea instructions. That's kinda interesting to me. :))

12/3/2006 7:36:35 PM

Montoursville, PA

The earthworm in our patches burrows through all available matter to produce the natural homestead and casts, of the earthworms. Your own biology is in both situations from A - Z.

All of the pathegons are in all patches and will remain there for ever. They were part of a plan bigger than us. In a ballanced soil the bad guys are held at bay by the good guys. Using soil as part of compost or teas expands the populations in the same percentage as they might be found anywhere. Pathegons dininish in numbers when healthy soil is built. Give the good guys a chance and they will literally control the bad guys. That principle is the basis of the entire organic movement.

12/3/2006 7:36:55 PM

Follansbee, Wv

I understand what your saying Doc, but I stand by my statement that patch soil is not a good EQUAL to compost in tea. If you want to add some soil to the compost pile fine. But it becomes part of the compost mix at that point. I do a good deal of composting myself and have learned what works for me by trial and error over the years. I personally do not add soil to my compost because it makes it too dang heavy to turn, considering the limited benefit it provides, which is simply a slightly faster finished product.
The finite amount of earthworm casts in a few cups of patch soil will not make the equivilant of pure compost, or pure worm casts I get from my own bins.

12/4/2006 6:52:59 PM

Follansbee, Wv

I also have to wonder how many growers were using alfalfa in their teas before last year...;)

12/4/2006 6:55:08 PM

President - GPC

Do any of you worry about E-coli from the composting teas? Any precautions we need to know about also?
Just wondering as I have read some government warnings, and brewing teas in the suburbs...its not allowed but gee I do it anyway.......you know they always have to "Control US" its that microscope up our .....U know what.....

12/5/2006 10:08:16 AM

Deer Park, WI

As far as I know, E. coli is an anerobic bacterium. Thus, if you are brewing aerobic teas, it will not thrive and the competetive nature of bateria will further suppress its growth. Secondly, if you are developing your own compost, as correctly suggested by others on this thread, if you ensure a compost pile temperature >140-150 degrees, this will literally cook the pathogenic microbes. Lastly, it is not recommended to add manures to your compost piles, as this increases the chances of pathogens fluorishing.

12/5/2006 6:39:40 PM

Follansbee, Wv

Joe is exactly right. One of the main reasons I do not use molasses is because it also feeds e. Coli bacteria. The biggest threat of e. Coli comes from un-composted or partially composted manure. While there are those on this board that will say "the good guys will eat the bad guys" that is NOT the case. The fact is, a brew period of AT LEAST 24 hours is recommended to fully aerate the tea and kill the e. Coli bacteria.

Yes, there is a danger of e. Coli if manure is used to make the compost that you use for tea. Adding molasses to that tea increases the danger. Longer brewing periods with vigorous aeration reduces the threat.

12/5/2006 7:30:09 PM

maine USA

I have 3 questions:
Robert I have used an aquarium pump to aerate my compost tea but I am not sure that it is powerful enough. I will be getting a 50 gallon barrel this year and I am wondering how powerful yours is. Also, I noticed that you used 2 tbsp. of baking soda in your tea. What is the purpose of the baking soda?
Doc, you mentioned using soil in the compost, which this time I didn't do. When I use my compost to make my tea, should I add a few tbsp, more or less soil to my tea? thanks KathyT

12/8/2006 12:44:40 PM

Paradise Mountain, New York

Baking soda will drop brew if it's alkaline. Baking soda eats up acid

12/8/2006 5:32:58 PM

Ontario, Canada.

Kathyt, Aquarium pumps need to be used with diffuser stones to produce small bubbles. The smaller the bubble size the greater the exchange of oxygen into the water. Bubble size depends on a couple of key factors the quality of the bubblier and the depth of the water. Pressure greatly affects the bubble size. Increased pressure makes it harder for small aquarium air pumps to work properly. Keep all lines as short as possible to reduce restriction into the tea and try a larger pump for a drum bubblier.

12/8/2006 7:39:59 PM

Ontario, Canada.

Kathyt, Sorry I forget one last detail. You may be able to tell very quickly if you have the correct size of bubblier by smelling the mixture. Rotten egg, vinegar or sour smells of milk and vomit are sure signs the brew is going anaerobic. If so you need something bigger!

12/8/2006 7:45:35 PM

Montoursville, PA

Thank you Kathy. Without volume numbers my mix includes about twenty percent native soil taken from under the compost pile. That twenty percent is all soil loaded with everything the compost pile bleeds off or leaches off. The compost pile is at the edge of the patch where the compost can be placed in the patch easily while the waste can be added to the piles with equally easy effort.
.....The other eighty percent is my native compost that contains, by test, the full range of biology bacteria, fungi and critters from ameoba through earthworms and beneficial insects. Earthworm casts are a part of finished compost. Sometimes earthworm casts are purchased and used.
.....I DO NOT TRY TO MAKE A SCIENCE OF THE SIMPLE ACT OF CREATING FINISHED COMPOST. Each batch of finished compost is as different as the many components of the pile in process.
.....I tinker it by bringing in coffee grounds, occasional peanut hulls, ground or chopped hay including the present wizz word one, neighbors grass, leaves, weeds, comfrey and soil from my garden all mixed up with various manures as available. This becomes compost and then in time finished compost.
....My soil added is a part of the total not the total. This is true in making the pile as well as making the tea bag. This approach literally assures a complete sampling of all you have supporting the growing of a stronger more healthy soil.

12/8/2006 9:46:51 PM

maine USA

thanks a bunch, KathyT

12/8/2006 11:43:30 PM

Aloha, Oregon

Well which one works best e-mail me at joghorselover@comcast.net to let me know.

Thanks!
Jordan

1/29/2007 8:00:53 PM

Montoursville, PA

E Gads he still can't get the grasp of it all. :)) The quality and efficiency of the brewer determines the hours it takes to arrive at high oxygen ppms that bring about the condition of aerobic tea. E-coly by gollies just can not live where the brewer will provice the right oxygen content..........with or without any molasses added to feed the bacteria explosion that will take place if the
equiment will produce the ppms and the temperature is there to support the massive growth.

Rather that be confused by anyone inclusing myself go to Dr. Ingrams writings for or about aerobic teas and to the site North Country Organics to see the tested results of their creation of aerobic teas using their highly effcient brewer and materials in just 18 hours. Their suggested use of molasses as bacteria food is a half to three quarters an ounce in five gallons. Ask either source of that information what is the make up and consistancy of the resulting light brown foam that usually appears begining at about ten or eleven hours using the Bobolator Brewer.

2/5/2007 8:20:27 PM