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Jamul

Should I have pollinated the little females in the 2-4 foot vine range range? I picked them off and now there are very few beyond that range(only one). Maybe my plant is too old and maybe more are coming? It's about 150 square feet now and looking great.Main is 11 feet.

4/16/2011 12:20:51 PM

formerly RGG

Don't worry about the melons that have been picked off. Let a few good shaped ones set on and pick the best one. Once you are able to evaluate which one that is going to be,pick off the others.It is probably best to try to set a melon on the main or on one of the other vines coming directly off the stump.I hope this helps some. :-)

4/16/2011 12:56:50 PM

Jamul

Thanks Dennis, I am asking Should I have picked them off, not whether or not I should worry about it :).You are right, too late for that. I am a bit worried about not seeing new females in more than a week.More like 10 days :(.

4/16/2011 2:07:51 PM

formerly RGG

Generally a healthy vine will start producing a lot more females than the grower would like to see.It just takes a little time to get there. So be patient, I am sure if the vine is healthy you will have several coming on real soon.Personally I think I would have done just as you did and picked off any in the 2' to 4' range.

4/16/2011 2:22:51 PM

Jamul

Thanks Dennis, The one I did get pollinated is at about 10 feet on the main, so for all I know it will hold on and be the keeper.

What is the farthest out on the main you would like one? Is there a point to give up on the main?

4/16/2011 2:46:57 PM

Marshall, MI

Hey Mr Rustico
Where are you growing this plant? Are you in the USA ???

4/16/2011 3:18:15 PM

Jamul

Hi Bill, Yes, I am in Southern California in the foothills about 25 miles from the coast.

4/16/2011 3:43:26 PM

Corryton, TN

It's not too uncommon. I think warmer temps will help.

4/16/2011 4:21:03 PM

Corryton, TN

Keep that plant healthy and you will have a big "factory"

4/16/2011 4:23:30 PM

formerly RGG

I think Chris Kent's 291 was about 12' or a little more from the stump. It's really not all about how far out a melon is set on the vine. It is more about plant size and vigor. You just don't want a really small vine trying to grow a big melon. And neither do you want a huge vine trying to grow one either.That is because the strength of the plant will be going more to support the extra vegetation when it should be going into swelling up a big melon.

4/16/2011 4:44:31 PM

Marshall, MI

Hey Mr Rustico
You have one polinated 10ft out.How many days ago did you polinate it . and how big is it now?

4/16/2011 5:44:22 PM

Jamul

Mr. Edwards, It was "selfed" on the 11th of this month. It's about the size of a seeded table grape but as I was saying about the females, it was tiny when pollinated. Seems like the little melon doubled today.

BrotherDave, A factory would be interesting to see.Of course it will bring up new questions.

Thanks for keeping with my questions, Dennis. Who Is going to write the first comprehensive book on Giant Melons?

4/16/2011 8:06:48 PM

formerly RGG

I would think a group collaboration by the founding members of the GWG would work best. Sign me up for an autographed copy guys.

4/16/2011 8:13:28 PM

Jamul

I'd buy it.

4/16/2011 8:44:59 PM

Bowdon, GA

What is the tempreture out there like Russell? Is it real hot? Also some high phos fertilizer might help get some more blooms on. I don't think you have to set one on the main just shoot for a main finger, over a side vine.

4/17/2011 7:05:55 PM

Jamul

Been hot off and on Jake, only mid 80's to 90's. Soil temps at 5" are 80ish on sunny days(and heat cables are still in there for nights). So far some of the first secondaries are as beefy and leafy as the other fingers off the stump, but I will watch both. The pollination on the main is holding and I may just go all in with it, for better or worse, unless it aborts... or I see something want to fly past it soon.

I am a little reluctant to tinker with the soil, but I will try to learn more about your fertilization suggestion, either for this plant or the future.

I hope everything is going well for you.

4/17/2011 9:56:26 PM

Bowdon, GA

If there is a big difference in day and night temps that could be a factor in pollination. Last year it got hot early here, high 90's to 100 at pollination. I had to put frozen water bottles and boxes to get females to set. The fertilizer is actually foliar feed. I ussually spray it only a week or two when flowering starts. Fertilome Bloom booster is the one I use.

4/17/2011 10:39:27 PM

Jamul

I remember that ice trick. Could easily need it. The temp swings are severe on some days down at patch level. I really have not had lots of pollination failure just lack of females to try. Hopefully a cooling trend will coincide with some backup chances soon.

Truth be told this is a pretty strange winter/spring experiment for a Southern Californian. I will be happy with what I have learned no matter what. Going into my first real season with some practice and notes is good. Much better to have an impressive fruit to go to the fair with in June of course!

4/17/2011 11:38:45 PM

sevierville, Tn

What are your temps now ??

4/18/2011 2:27:51 PM

Jamul

It just cooled off today we are around 70 highs for the foreseeable future with nights mid to high 40's. I am still covering it at night though so it is mid 50 to 60.

Looks like the one pollinated on the main is a dud after all. It has barely grown and it seems from last year's diaries,your and some others, that it should be in the pounds range by now not ounces!

4/18/2011 7:13:16 PM

sevierville, Tn

Probally too cool.
Dud=yep, if they are good, you will know in 4-5 days. The stems will grow, dud or not, so thats not a good way to tell. They will grow faster each day.

4/19/2011 2:49:11 PM

Jamul

Thanks Chris. I have a PB for stems still a little ways to go.

4/20/2011 12:26:09 AM

Jamul

Starting to wonder if this plant is not particularly self sterile. If so, I can't say I wasn't warned. There are 5 recent pollinations that are well out on secondaries. I have this sinking feeling that one by one they will be duds. If so the plant comes out. The weather has been beautiful since my last post.

Those who said more females would arrive were right. How about predicting one self pollinated one will stick and grow to 200 pounds?

5/2/2011 4:28:05 PM

Trinity River Bottom

Give it time if you have bees or other insects you will have melons..

5/2/2011 4:54:51 PM

formerly RGG

Try cutting way down on any nitrogen you may be feeding. Plants don't like to set melons if they are "grow happy".

5/2/2011 6:44:40 PM

Jamul

Kirk, I hand pollinated the last 10 or so females. I can see plenty of pollen and I am doing it on nice clear dry temperate days.

TD, I have only given it two doses of weak compost tea since it was planted. That was a long time ago.

How old can a plant be and how far out on the vines can a fruit set and still have good size potential? These are all secondaries now, since I pruned the main.

5/3/2011 11:54:50 AM

formerly RGG

Did you have a soil analysis done? I have never grown a watermelon vine that would not set fruit.

5/3/2011 1:37:07 PM

Jamul

No I did not,Dennis. But it is basically the same soil mixture that has grown great regular watermelons and everything else in over the last couple of years. It's virgin native dirt that only lacks nitrogen to which was added good rich compost that I made. My native soil is granitic which is great for melons except for that it lacks nitrogen. That's why I think the plant may be self sterile to a pretty high degree. James warned of this in his "How to" article? The only other thing I can think of, related to your questioning, is that the compost is too rich in N and there's too much of it.

5/3/2011 1:51:36 PM

sevierville, Tn

I'll be surprised if it is sterile. Got to be something wrong. The plant looked good in the pictures.
Do you cover the female after polination ? With what ?
What are the temps from Morning to midday to night ?

5/3/2011 2:45:44 PM

Jamul

I don't cover the female, Chris. Should I? There is no risk of cross pollination. We have been high 70's low 80's for a couple of weeks and around 48-54 at night. It's near 90 today and going back to that nice weather. I am not using a brush but rather softly smudging the flowers together, which has worked before.

This plant is almost 3.5 months from germ now.

5/3/2011 3:31:49 PM

Trinity River Bottom

for what it's worth mine last year took 60 days from planting in the ground until i had a melon set. not sure what nite time temp actually have an effect on but that is pretty cool for a melon.

5/3/2011 3:49:51 PM

Trinity River Bottom

Here is an option if you think the plant is self sterile which i really doubt. You want have pure carolina seed but if you have males on your mountain hoosiers use them. If you are just wanting to grow a melon on that plant.

5/3/2011 4:12:20 PM

Jamul

Unfortunately the mountain hoosiers got root boiled because I left sides of the black pots exposed to the sun on a hot day. I had another CC next to the 193 but cut it out to make room.
I totally gambled on a self....

5/3/2011 4:29:31 PM

Jamul

It's hopeful that there is doubt about the self sterility.

5/3/2011 4:31:29 PM

Trinity River Bottom

just be patient i think you will be ok.

5/3/2011 4:39:13 PM

Jamul

Thanks,Kirk. I hope your weather straightens out for you.

5/3/2011 4:41:09 PM

formerly RGG

It seems to me like the problem (whatever it is) is in the vine's growing conditions and not in the vine itself. And if that is true and this vine sets no melons; then what's to say the next vine will do any better?

5/3/2011 5:11:47 PM

Jamul

Is that question for the group, Dennis? And do you mean this vine's next producing branch, or are you wondering about a new plant in the same patch?

5/3/2011 5:37:42 PM

Corryton, TN

After checking historical weather data, I did not get any sets until night temps stayed above 60 deg. I lost a bunch of controled crosses that would have been developing in the low 50's. Not saying it matters, just an observation.

5/3/2011 5:50:01 PM

Jamul

Would a small hoop house and lamp around the next developing female or two possibly help? Can't really do much for the entire plant, as was suggested once already...Kind of the reverse of the ice trick for hot weather.

I really appreciate the help given here.

5/3/2011 6:02:40 PM

Corryton, TN

It might.

Maybe a germination mat covered with sand. I would think the worst thing that could happen is you cook part of the plant.

5/3/2011 6:15:06 PM

Jamul

I'll give it a try Dave. Good brainstorming you all. Maybe the plumbing in the female slows down if temps get too much under 60F.

5/3/2011 6:25:49 PM

sevierville, Tn

That sounds like a good idea....keep it warm at night after pollination for like 2 days. Try covering the female after pollination with a small cloth or similer item. The flower to flower sounds fine, thats the way i do mine & if you see pollen,no probs there. Its got to be the cold & i bet its dry there too(humidity) Right ???? The pollen may be drying out, that why i said cover the female after pollination.

5/3/2011 8:08:14 PM

sevierville, Tn

The cold would explain alot, thats why your having probs, maybe that was James problem ???? Where as everything here that even looks female get pregnant !

5/3/2011 8:12:59 PM

Jamul

You got it, Chris.

I think you and Dave and some others were on the right track with the temps all along. I kept thinking night time temps, but saw all that plant growth and it threw me off.

It is almost always dry here spring through late fall, but that hasn't ever stopped any pollinations of any other cucurbits including plenty of melons(really high temps have). There is usually a rise in humidity at night.
Thanks,
Russell

5/3/2011 10:15:22 PM

Jamul

We have at least one melon that succeeded in getting lift off.It's on a decent secondary. Main+secondary about 11 feet.
It was pollinated before I added any extra warmth so it started with night time dips into the low to mid 50's. I will be ready with a warmer for earlier sets next year, because the is still a good idea.
Thanks again,
Russell

5/7/2011 11:39:54 AM

Arden, NC

Rust,

Here is a little trick I use early in the season to keep the plants warm through the night. I use diet mountain dew 2 liter bottles and fill them with water (cap em) and lay them a few inches from a young plant. During the day the dark green bottle heats up the water inside and conversely blows the heat off all night keeping the soil and air just a little warmer than it might be other wise all night. That would certainly work around the baby melons and with a towel thrown over the two parallel bottles I bet it'd stay nice and toasty all night.

5/7/2011 3:33:12 PM

Jamul

Thanks Rookiesmom1,

That's a good idea and I will start using it.

5/7/2011 7:40:18 PM