Tomato Growing Forum
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Subject: Tomato blight
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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m parenty |
Rhode Island
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what would be the best way to treat and cure tomato blight. (new to the site, any advise is greatly appreciated) blight is rapidly spreading through out my plants. don't want to lose my 3 pounders. thanks again.
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8/9/2009 9:51:59 PM
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~Duane~ |
ExtremeVegetables.com
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Blight can not be cured. You may be able to slow it down by removing affected plant parts and using a fungicicde but it can not be stopped.
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8/10/2009 6:03:48 AM
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Engel's Great Pumpkins and Carvings |
Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)
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Mulch before hand to prevent to soil from splashing and coming in contact with the leaves.
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8/10/2009 1:53:14 PM
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Marv. |
On top of Brush Mountain, Pa.
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Central Pennsylvania is heavilly infested with late blight. Even the local Master Gardener's plot is infected. Once you have it throughout the garden the game is over. Here the recommendation is to remove the total plant including as much of the root as possible and put everything in a black plastic bag which is to be placed in the sun. This is said to kill the fungus but then the recommendation is to burn the bags and contents later. Some growers are using fungicides to prevent the fungus from wiping out their garden. People are using such things as Immunox, Manzeb and Daconil. Organic gerowers are trying milk. Maybe Tremor has some suggestions? Pumpkin growers know about preventive measures for fungus. You need to start early.
Marv
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8/12/2009 5:59:27 PM
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VTWilbur |
Springfield, VT
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The only solution is prevention by spraying with Manzeb or Daconil. Once the plants are infected it is to late for them. All my plant were hit a couple weeks ago, one day they were fine next they were black.
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8/12/2009 8:27:55 PM
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Tomato Man |
Colorado Springs, CO
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Is there enough spacing between plants to assure good air circulation, no contact of leaves with adjacent plants and thus plenty of sun contact with all leaves and the soil below ?
Does your soil have good drainage, i.e. no puddling of water for extended time ? Have you worked into that soil things like dry molasses, horticultural corn meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and/or the likes of any compost teaming with earthworms ?
This blight being experienced by growers in the northeast is well known this year. How's your rain and warmth been this year ?....compared to last year(s). Word would have it that the globe is not showing signs of warming in the northeast this season. Too much rain and cooler temperatures are sure-as-shootin' to be a prime causes of this blight.
Chuck the chemicals.....go organic. Your soil will thank you, and so will your plants.
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8/13/2009 10:01:52 AM
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m parenty |
Rhode Island
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thanks to all. one more question IS THE FUNGICIDE compass safe to eat? Thanks again'
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8/13/2009 12:45:14 PM
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m parenty |
Rhode Island
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The plants are big.wide and thick wite several 3 pounders going will continue the battle with manzate and daconil.Theplant I just picked a 3 lbs 6oz was the only one treated with compass and is doing good.
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8/13/2009 12:57:33 PM
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UnkaDan |
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the first positive ID was made in WI on July 29th, since the pathogen has been shown to spread to potato crops (which are a vital part of agriculture here, esp seed grade) the University Pathology lab has been diligent in notifying growers of the lastest info and methods of avoiding infestation. This is an airborne inoculum, mulch is non applicable with it. In the east the strain has spread to potatos
I have a word document that lists all the recognized fungicides for prevention and some that might slow progress. The only accepted materials for organic growers contain copper. If you want a copy of the document email and I can send it along. Too lengthy to try and list all the info here.
danunorth@verizon.net
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8/13/2009 1:16:26 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Marv,
I posted the Cornell alert here on 7/29 which was right after our own maters died.
Look down 4 threads below this one. Also see-
http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm
Contact fungicides need to be appied light, early & often in order to be effective.
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8/13/2009 1:48:04 PM
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big moon |
Bethlehem CT
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My tomatoes just got hit this week. The first time I have ever had late blight in over 25 years of growing. It's nothing like the other diseases tomatoes get. It is a nasty one!
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8/13/2009 2:47:26 PM
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Billy K |
Mastic Beach, New York
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could some one post a pic of there plants that have it ..i might have it i thought i burned the leaves with fert's.thanks
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8/18/2009 6:06:27 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Nasty disease. We ripped ours out. No pix Billy - sorry.
http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm
some pix
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8/18/2009 7:59:16 PM
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m parenty |
Rhode Island
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Hey billy. mp here .i will try to get some pics up soon.
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8/21/2009 12:46:17 PM
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lisfisher |
Ct
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Yep mine are all wiped out by the blight too. 32 plants destroyed. 32 pepper plants too, maybe 8 are somewhat healthy.I quit!!!
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8/21/2009 4:03:03 PM
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Billy K |
Mastic Beach, New York
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Mike i have too .just saw your pic's..it's killing me lost some good tomato's..
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8/22/2009 7:24:31 PM
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Total Posts: 16 |
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