From

Location

Message

Date Posted

Italy

Hi every year I get powdery mildew around 30 DAP that sucks! Do you have any advices about? I spray with Penconazole and Metil thiophanate.. Also tried silicates foliar but they didn't work as well. Powdery mildew pressure is very very higt in my area.

7/8/2016 6:02:46 AM

Central Minnesota

Eagle 20 which is Myclobutanil...Best I have found.

7/8/2016 9:02:14 AM

President - GPC

Yup Eagle 20 works great! And the rabbits dont like it neither

7/8/2016 9:32:48 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

Do you start w/ Eagle 20 when you see it, or pre-emptive treatments? I always have Powdery Mildew, cause I have lilac in my yard. Peace, Wayne
Any idea what the application rates are?
Yep, I have been idle for a couple of years & can't read the label instructions!!! LOL

7/9/2016 1:53:12 AM

Putnam Ct.

Peace Wayne, If I remember correctly Matt D told me the powdery mildew on lilac is a different spore then the one we get on our ag's. Any input Matt? Be preventive with pm, I start early using daconil then when warm humid nights start or I feel pm is a threat I switch to eagle 20.

7/9/2016 10:45:57 AM

Eastern Pennsylvania

It is always best to use a preventative approach with fungicides. Yes eagle 20 is the best. As far as I know, once you see the powdery mildew, you cannot kill it or remove it from the plants. You can only stop it in its tracks from spreading further.

I think I use 1 tablespoon per gallon, I haven't used it yet this year so not positive on that.

7/9/2016 11:37:44 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

Thanks to all! Peace, Wayne
Been so wet here, I will prbly spray soonly!

7/10/2016 7:48:43 PM

Connecticut

I do not get on here as much as I would like but here is my advise...

Prevention is the "best" way to approach most diseases and this holds true for Powdery Mildew for sure. Green Gene does remember correctly that lilacs are a different species of Powdery Mildew that will not infect pumpkin plants.

Also, Salvo85 you are probably seeing Powdery consistently around day 30 because this is when the plant becomes stressed and is more prone to infection. A commercial grower I work with had a very poor pumpkin crop one year, but he had the best looking plants ever. This was because the plants did not have the fruit stress on them so even with minimal sprays they were very resistant to diseases.

It is best to rotate fungicides and to also apply a contact with a systemic. Systemics should not be applied alone due to the increase chance of building up resistance.

Since Powdery lives on the surface organic approaches can also be very effective. You need to be preventive, but 40% whole milk and 60% water can work very well. (You can even go as low as 25% milk and still get some benefits, but why not use the best dilution.) Anything more than 40% milk will not offer much benefit. Milk can be applied in the middle of the day (even though I do not recommend it) with minimal chance of leaf burn.

If you want data to support the milk theory here you go...

http://digitalcommons.uconn.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1146&context=gs_theses

http://www.team-pumpkin.org/milk%20and%20pumpkins.htm

Hope this helps,

-Matt

7/11/2016 10:52:26 PM

Here is the data on Eagle 20 for those interested in it -
http://www.coloradogreenlab.com/blog/eagle-20-and-myclobutanil-in-the-context-of-cannabis-cultivation-and-consumption

I have been using Companion Biological Fungicide with really great success for all of my plants in the garden.

http://www.hollandsgiants.com/companionbiologicalfungicide.html

I apply by drench or spray.

7/12/2016 7:33:21 AM

Central Illinois

Is Myclobutanil the product that should not be used before flowering and pollination ?

7/12/2016 8:49:39 AM

Central Illinois

Yes it is , is known to have growth regulating effects & may reduce flower formation

7/12/2016 8:51:07 AM