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KENTUCKY

I just got my hand on an Ariens Rocket Tiller (free). This thing looks it is MAJOR heavy duty! It is all solid cast iron, with what looks like a direct shaft to rear tines gear box which looks like 1" solid cast iron gear box shell. This thing must weigh 300-400#s. It has an optional electric start, 2 forward and 1 reverse gears, clutch, front end counter balance weight, and many other things. It has not ran in 4-5 years(what the people told me). At first I thought he engine was blown because it wouldn't turn. I took the head off the engine and pulled the piston right out(then the engine turns freely and the valves work properly). A broken arm (or whatever it's called that connects the piston to the crank is broke in half. Upon further inspection, the valves still seat very well and the inside of the engine is nearly immaculate! Actually the outside is in very good shape also. I don't know anything about this tiller at all. But it does look to be very heavy duty! I've never seen such a well buit tiller in my life. I am seriously considering rebuilding the engiine and carb and keeping the tiller. I was hoping someone out there has had experience with this tiller, or could tell me if you think it is worth rebuilding. As of right now I think it is.

any responses well appreciated!!

Mike
Good luck to all this year!

4/26/2003 5:17:26 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

I can't speak for that particular tiller. Never had one. But I have run commercial power equipment shops. If the crankshaft isn't scored, & the connecting rod (the thing that broke) didn't damage the bore, then it is probably worth rebuilding. BUT...lot's of stuff happens when a con-rod breaks. AND...there has to be a reason for it having broken...like low engine oil. A good small engine mechanic should go over that engine & work up a writtn estimate before repairs begin.

It might be more feasible to change the engine for a new one. What brand & model engine are on it now? I can still get Briggs, Honda & Kawasaki engines at OEM wholesale cost (with full warranty) since I still technically work for a PE manufacturer. If interested, provide full model, type, & spec numbers from the engine cover or block casting.

Steve

4/26/2003 7:42:15 PM

Montoursville, PA

Ariens was and still is one heck of a good machine. Have the motor assessed and quoted for a fix. I have also had several Ariens snow blowers which have the same good reputation in this area. Over all I have had three tillers and two snowblowers of that company. I would look that direction if I ever needed another.

4/26/2003 7:53:26 PM

KENTUCKY

tremor,
The engine has absolutly no name on it all. The only thing I can find on it is some numbers as follows
hh70-1400380 ser-5344d
any help on the make and horsepower would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
Mike

4/27/2003 6:57:03 PM

Walton N.y.

those #'s sound like tecumseh to me as ariens used lots of them on their equipment and that's why the connecting rod broke as tecumseh engines have a very poor tolerence to low oil and or a dirty air filter or even dirty engine block as dirt on the housing holds in heat i would have the engine checked over by a reputable repair shop like on a previous post when a rod goes most of the time there is more damage to the engine than you think if the rest of the machine is in good shape i would look into either replacing the whole engine or do a short block look into the price difference as a short block with labor can cost more than a new engine plus warrenty on a short block only covers the parts in the short block while a whole engine warrenty covers all but normal wear parts

4/27/2003 8:50:59 PM

huntsburg,ohio

Ariens is a good tiller and i also would say tecumseh.Make it a boat anchor and put a kohler,a briggs,maybe a honda anything but another tecumseh.Jerry

4/27/2003 9:46:07 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Yes, that's a 7HP Tecumseh engine. I can't get parts for those. They're decent engines. Not like the old cast iron Kohler or the new Honda's or Kawasaki's, but good to go on a tiller.
I did find a fair price on a short block for you. With this you get the whole block with all the internal components. You place your carb, ignition, starter etc on the shortblock & your ready to go. $230.00 from Farmers Exchange. Just make sure the type & spec numbers are the same.
Check this link & contact them to be sure.

http://www.farmex.now.tc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_119&products_id=983

Steve

4/27/2003 10:16:59 PM

Billerica,Massachusetts

I rebuilt a 7 horse tecumsuh two years ago it was a 70h seven indicates horsepower h indicates horizontal shaft, mine just needed rings and carb rebuilt. Manufacturers supply sells the connecting rod for that unit for around twenty bucks.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/23-6769.html?id=B26nu9Mp

glenn

4/28/2003 9:58:36 AM

Walton N.y.

i would look real close at the crankshaft as i'm almost possitive there is some scoring from whatever made the conn. rod snap also check the bore that might have some scoring as well crankshaft end play also comes to mind i think 10-15/1000 is close to right

4/29/2003 8:44:43 PM

KENTUCKY

I've been reading all responses and asking around town, by looking at the crank through the cylinder, I see no damage. Just want some opinions, would you put $75 into taking the chance to rebuild, or spend $300 and just buy new engine?

4/29/2003 9:41:11 PM

Montoursville, PA

Now you are down to a local call, your's. Just be sure you are absolutely talking to the organ grinder not the monkey.
I would have no problem with a well known guy rebuilding.

4/30/2003 8:43:06 AM

Walton N.y.

the call is yours a reputable service center should give you some sort of warrenty on the rebuild and if when they open it up and possibly find more than what they thought was wrong give you a call before they do repairs with an estamate of what the repares will now cost and then make a final decision

5/1/2003 8:51:01 PM