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Colorado

My soil pH is 7.7, buffer pH 7.5

according to the website below (from colorado state university) is it true that I won't have much luck lowering my soil pH with sulfur??? I tried the test they suggest, and it indicated that my soil has free lime.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/Garden/07727.html

11/15/2006 11:11:56 PM

Cameron,ontario Team Lunatic

Pete
Mine was at 7.8. I added sulfur & had it down to 6.9. It took 3 seasons to get it down, but it worked. It's risen again to 7.2, so I've used it again this fall to bring it back down to 6.9. Rate I spread it this fall was 10# per 1000 sq ft. It takes time to work(4 months-1year), so I would suggest you use it this fall. Hope this helps.

Phil

11/16/2006 6:27:00 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Pete,

I've never worked with the soils you speak of but if you add enough decayed acidic compost the pH should stabilize somewhat. Try to find Pine Needles, non-pH adjusted Peat Moss, etc. Don't go overboard, but in time the pH will come down some. You might also add a non-calciferous soil which would dilute the existing condition if trucking expenses don't prevent it.

How far away from you are non-calciferous soils found?

11/16/2006 7:47:05 AM

Rexburg, Idaho (brianchristensenmd@gmail.com )

Pete,
Yes, I'm not the expert here but I've looked into it quit a bit. The soils in parts of the intermountain west are alkali and it is because of the free lime. I have similar soils with a pH of 8 and a free lime of 7. If you calculate how much soil sulfur is needed to neutralize free lime the amount is prohibitive. I'd have to look up the numbers and do the math again but for my patch it was on the order of 20 tons to neutralize the free lime. That much soil sulfur can't be good. On the good side depending on who

11/16/2006 8:39:28 AM

Pocatello (cliffwarren@yahoo.com)

Like Brian, I have tried to study this problem for years. I've seen everything from "Just quit, you can't do it!" to things that suggest that there is hope. I am tending to believe in the later. Keep up with the organic matter. Lately I've found that my soil has an appetite for organic matter. It just eats it "gone" in no time. I've heard that this is a good thing, that the organisms and worms are active. Anyway...

One very related question that I have is, if I use chelated calcium with soil like ours, will that send my pH higher or not? Also, chelated iron?

11/17/2006 1:37:27 PM

Montoursville, PA

I made a phone call on this. The bottom line is organic content over 10% even 15% will provide some forgiveness as will the modest use of sulphur.

With improving bio-products one might try humic acid...again not in excess of an ounce a year on a 1000 sq. ft. patch when using a 30% product. This ties in and works with the added organic content suggested. This is not hokey pokey magic just improved understanding leading to healthy patch. This in addition to the simplistic call for another load of manure or half an inch of finished compost over all.

If using Agro-K the Symbex 4X and molasses is another approach to boost the biological commnity levels of activity and make more nutrients available for plant use.

Mycorrhiza of the Endo type does help deliver what the plant needs as well as bypassing some elements the plant does not need. Mycorrhiza will not overwinter very well without the use of a cover crop. It depends of living roots as a host.

11/18/2006 10:09:33 AM

President - GPC

Humic Acid from GreenSmith's Pete, We going to woop this high Ph into shape, Stay away from the Gypsum from what I read its bad for the Myco and we want that fungi, I too will be using CSU for another test.

11/18/2006 11:06:53 AM

Colorado

Tremor- I'm still looking for non-calciferous soil... thanks for the input everyone!

11/18/2006 5:33:39 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Pete

You might do well to befriend a long haul trucker. Lot's of loads originate within a reasonable distance of you. Pay him to backhaul soil.

11/18/2006 8:00:37 PM