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Midway, UT

Got my soil test back and would love some recommendations on what I should do for my final prep based on this test. I believe I should probably add more calcium (gypsum) but not sure how much I should add. Thanks in advance for any help and direction you could offer.

Organic matter: 6%
Nitrogen: 70ppm
Phophourous Weak Bray: 265ppm
Phosphourous NaHCO3-P: 24ppm
Potassium: 1062ppm
Magnesium: 546ppm
Calcium: 2711ppm
Sodium: 107ppm
Sulfur: 100ppm

pH: 7.3

Percent Cation Saturation: Potassium 12.8%, Magnesium 21.2%, Calcium 63.8%, Sodium 2.2%

CEC: 21.2
Ex. Lime: High

3/26/2014 9:55:14 AM

Germany

Add some gypsum, and don´t add any K this year.

3/26/2014 11:13:46 AM

President - GPC

No Compost, K is high enough. Mg is low, should be 7:1 with Ca. OM looks good, Bet your Mn is low as well....howZ the B?

3/26/2014 11:53:06 AM

Midway, UT

Thanks for the replies. Any suggestions on how much gypsum to add to the patch? I have a hard time converting pounds of gypsum into ppm to get the numbers in better balance.

3/26/2014 1:31:29 PM

Colorado

add gypsum and compost to get the OM up and improve soil structure. and some peat moss.

3/26/2014 7:15:29 PM

Germany

@WiZzzy: Mg is low??? Ca:Mg with 2711 ppm : 546 ppm is already 5 : 1 and Ca needs to get a bit higher to reach the 7 : 1 ratio. Did you want to tell that Mg:Ca should be 7:1 ??? Can´t believe it.

@ArvadaBoy: The amount of gypsum to be added...something like 50 lbs per 1000 sqft. That´s still less than required to reach the 7:1 ratio for Ca:Mg, but somewhere above 3000 ppm you will reach the limits of solubility of calcium sulphate, hence any additional gypsum will not dissolve in the moisture in your soil as long as enough Ca and sulphate is available in dissolved form. Therefore, just add some gypsum (like the 50 lbs per 1000 sqft) to keep the Ca level up and don´t add any K (and no Mg or only little Mg) and wait for rain and crop uptake to lower the concentrations of K and Mg in your soil.

3/27/2014 3:41:10 AM

Weedville,pa

How many square feet is your patch?

3/27/2014 7:27:05 AM

Midway, UT

The patch is about 1,000 sq feet. I should have included that previously.

3/27/2014 1:39:57 PM

President - GPC

Heavy clay soils may need up to 70% or more Ca saturation, light sandy soils up to 20% Mg. As a general rule, the amount of K, Potassium, should equal the amount of Mg, Magnesium, by weight, but the K level should not be more than 5% of base saturation.There are many soils found around the world that have an ―inverted‖ Ca/Mg ratio, with Magnesium higher than Calcium or at least higher than 20% Mg, or Sodium levels above 5%. There are also many soils that naturally have very high Calcium levels (above 80% base saturation) but lack Magnesium. The usual approach to correct this problem is to add Sulfur in one form or another. Most soils worldwide are Sulfur deficient, and plants love Sulfur. Depending on the situation, the answer may be to add pure 90% agricultural Sulfur, Magnesium sulfate, Calcium sulfate, or Potassium sulfate. Which one is used will depend upon the overall balance of the major cations.
Calcium too high, Magnesium low: Add Magnesium sulfate, (Epsom salts).
Magnesium too high, Calcium low: Add Calcium sulfate, ( gypsum).
Calcium and/or Magnesium high, Potassium low: Add Potassium sulfate
Ca, Mg, and K all high or adequate, high pH: Add 90% agricultural Sulfur

3/27/2014 2:59:55 PM

President - GPC

We have high calcareous soil here in Colorado....What adding Sulfur or sulfates does is induce the sulfur to chemically bond with whatever other cation is in excess. For instance, if one adds Epsom salts, Magnesium sulfate, to a soil that is high in Calcium but low in Magnesium, the Sulfur in the Epsom salts will tend to attach to the Calcium, pulling the excess Calcium from the exchange site and leaving an atom of Magnesium. The result is free Calcium sulfate (gypsum) in the soil/water solution...... Walla....Hope this helps Jamie.... has helped me a great deal.....

3/27/2014 3:01:53 PM

President - GPC

The Calcium:Magnesium ratio sets the stage for all of the rest of the elements. If the Calcium level is too high in relation to Magnesium, the soil will be loose but will lose its texture and cohesiveness and water may drain through too easily and be lost. It will also be more prone to erosion from wind or water. If the Magnesium level is too high, the soil will be tight, preventing water and air from moving through easily.A very heavy clay soil needs to be loosened up, so one would wish to see a Ca:Mg saturation ratio of perhaps 70% (er even more) Calcium to 10% Magnesium. A very loose sandy soil needs to be tightened up to hold water and prevent erosion; in that case 60% Calcium and 20% Magnesium would be desired.
Heavy clay: 70% (or more) Calcium, 10% Magnesium
Loose sand: 60% Calcium, 20% Magnesium.
At no time do we want the Calcium saturation to be below 60% or the Magnesium saturation below 10% unless we are growing specialty crops such as blueberries or rhododendrons.

3/27/2014 3:23:46 PM

President - GPC

If K is high, DO NOT ADD COMPOST......

3/27/2014 3:53:48 PM

Colorado

too much clay = not enough roots = light to the charts. more compost = better soil structure. just my opinion.

3/27/2014 5:20:34 PM

President - GPC

Misconception: It is virtually impossible to over apply compost because compost is not high analysis or burning.
Truth: Compost is a very potent supplier of potassium and can very quickly imbalance a soils’ calcium to potassium ratio resulting in a decline of nutrient density.

Misconception: Compost should be applied regularly.
Truth: Compost should be applied when the soil needs it.

Misconception: Compost is really all an organic gardener needs.
Truth: Soil needs what it needs—not just what compost supplies.

Misconception: Compost is far superior to all other fertilizers and soil amendments.
Truth: Compost is a specific tool for a specific job. Other tools are also required to bring a soil to full remineralization. Before using compost ask yourself, Does my soil show a need for additional potassium? If not you may be better to avoid it. Why? Because compost has one glaring deficiency—it is chronically short on calcium and will imbalance the calcium to potassium ratio of soils in short order. Just some of the studies I have wintered over with....Guess we will see how it translocates to the patch....

3/27/2014 5:53:50 PM

Weedville,pa

Pumpking's recommendation for 50 lbs of gypsum will give you 11lbs of Calcium. That should put you dead on at 70% base saturation for calcium. Wizzzy is correct in encouraging you to check micronutrients also. Michael Astera's soil balancing principles are based on the soil "self correcting" to a pH of 6.5. Being at 7.3 changes the situation and availability of the micronutrients suffers above 7.0.

3/27/2014 6:03:34 PM

Bethlehem CT

Wizzy you are a smart guy.

3/27/2014 8:08:14 PM

Lodi, California

I see that you have been reading Michael Astera's The Ideal Soil, though obviously, you are much better at memorizing it than I am. I think that you have reawakened my interest to reread the book.

3/27/2014 9:46:47 PM

President - GPC

Great Read for all growers.....Itz available on ebook, but I suggest the paper copy spread out and write upon...but its a great source to add to oneZ library and great winter reading.
Here is the link, and its also on our front page at ColoradoPumpkins.com. http://www.soilminerals.com/

3/28/2014 9:30:36 AM

President - GPC

Here iZ another source I wanna share:

https://aglabs.infusionssoft.com/app/form/garden-email-series

Jon Frank sends you an series email a day directed towards how to mineralize gardens and grow high nutrition food by balancing the soil, Great way to start off the day. Check it out.... Also a link on our Colorado Website.

3/28/2014 9:34:59 AM

President - GPC

I laughed out loud when I read...

Whilst Adam slept Eve arose, strange how his first sleep should be his last repose.......

3/28/2014 9:37:48 AM

BC, Canada

WiZzy
Thank you, 2 or 3 times ! Great read with the morning coffee. You sure am smart guy.
Now, my question, do you mind writing a couple of lines re: Rhodos/blueberries and the cal/mag saturation you mentioned. The Ericaceaes. We have dozens of rhodos around the property and a line of blueberries,
Thanks

3/28/2014 12:22:43 PM

President - GPC

Garythewizard@gmail.com

Just keeping up with our club mantra.....

If you are growing OUTSIDE....then you are growing INSIDE.....For what we grow today..... we shall grow BIGGER tomorrow...

3/28/2014 12:57:08 PM

Willamette Valley, Oregon

Based on the following link, the K:Mg ratio (ppm/ppm) indicates more Mg is needed.

http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/support/library/ff/Is_Magnesium_a_Hidden_Problem_in_your_area.htm

K:Mg (ppm/ppm) = 1.9, which seems like a real problem for Mg availability. It should be closer to 1.5 or 1 or even 0.5. That means you're set up for low plant Mg concentrations. Seems like adding Mg is needed. With the high K that's in opposition to the Ca:Mg recommendation, though. So it's a tougher call.

Maybe foliar-applied Mg is a partial solution?

4/10/2014 3:22:32 PM