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Indianapolis,Indiana

I would like to know what I can plant me tomato seeds in to make them happy until transplanting date? Thanks for any help

1/18/2006 5:42:39 PM

Syracuse, NY

Jiffy-Pots, extra-depth, in an environment at about 85-90
degrees F*...once they sprout, they IMMEDIATELY go
under flourescent lights or flourescent Gro-Lites,
with the lights kept about 2 inches maximum above the
seedlings' leaves. adjust height as necessary.
GOOD idea to have a SMALL fan blowing on them
from a few feet away to help prevent fungus and "damping off", which is itself a type of fungus, (be sure to monitor the need for watering!)
and the lights remain on for 24/7 until they are all out in the garden/patch. you will be amazed at how many different responses you'l get about the length of this fake daylight that people recommend...this is just mine.
they will become very stocky and be more adapted to outdoors because of the fan, and the lights, on all the time, make the plants GROW but not outta control.
at the point at which the seedlings' roots try to grow into the others' peat pellets a few inches away, it is time to transplant them all into like 1-gallon nursery pots filled with probably just potting soil. if you snip off the first pair of leaves
and then bury the seedling up to the NEXT set, you will give the seedling the opportunity to grow roots from the very stem of the plant....this can happen anywhere on the plant, even three months into the season;
once they fall on the ground at my house, roots form into the ground wherever the stalks are laying, lol...
i think the recemmendation is to START your seeds
6-8 weeks before your last frost date. eric g

1/18/2006 7:08:41 PM

Anamosa, IA BPIowegian@aol.com

Pumpkinpal2; will the compact spiral flourescent bulbs work as well as the long tubes? We are giving the giant tomatoes a shot this year. Also, how soon before planting out in the garden do you start your seeds?

1/18/2006 9:45:21 PM

Indiana

Josh/ Iowegian I start mine about 5/7 or so weeks before I want to get them in the garden. I Start them about the first of April in central Indiana If you want grow the giants you may want to start them a bit later depending on when you want to weigh them. mine are already done come the first of October. The rest of what pumpkinpal says is great but I start mine in 4 inch pots and seed starting mix. get them outside as early as you can weather permitting to harden off (in the shade) They dont handle going straight from the house to the garden very well.

1/18/2006 11:10:01 PM

Sioux Falls, SD garyboer@dakotalink.com

That fan sounds like a good idea. . .

1/18/2006 11:49:00 PM

Syracuse, NY

Iowegian, i would expect that the spirals would work as well, but only on ONE PLANT for each bulb.
the further away the plant is the lower the intensity of the light, as it decreases i think exponentially.
if the plants do not get adequate light to keep them
stocky they will become leggy and difficult to manage.
best to use a 4-foot, two-bulb fixture over whatever you are trying to grow. additionally, the seeds HAVE BEEN started at my house April 1st for planting out like May 8th or so....30 days four weeks, so i would have to say to plant the seeds in the exact middle of March. i have ALWAYS started them later than i should have. middle of March plus all of April is about 6 weeks and that is what the seed packet recommends, 6-8 weeks. i think mine would become stagnant and rather die than be under MY care for that long! lol
oh, yeah, combine my beliefs here with those of moondog---
i have also used 4' peat pots and also Mycorrhizae in the
seed-starting mix; they do well like this....
i can only stay awake long enough to throw just so much
B achelor of S cience out there to the masses. read the not-fine print, lol....it's all good------eric

1/19/2006 7:18:12 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Pal2...laughing at the B of S degree... Peace, Wayne

1/19/2006 7:58:52 PM

ENGLAND

Josh
Try Here http://www.gvgo.ca/articles/interview_lyons01.html

1/20/2006 5:46:21 AM