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Ohio

I have ground moles around my patch area, Monty was up at the house and we was looking at my patch site and discovered alot of the ground around my patch was raised,(grass area) I had moles before but they have never been this close to my patch, I would like to take care of this before growing season, anything i can do besides wait for the ground to move and slice em in half with my shovel?

12/29/2004 10:38:38 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

.

http://www.talpirid.com/

.

12/29/2004 10:46:05 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

About $45 with tax for 2 trays of worms for a total of 20 worms.

Harpoon & choker traps work well too. But these require a degree of skill & are best used on thawed soil.

12/29/2004 10:50:04 AM

Follansbee, Wv

Trust me Brooks, the coffee and stomp method I described works the best. Moles are very picky eaters, and will often avoid poisoned baits. There is a way to drive them off/away. Take a box of moth balls and spread it around the patch (the outside, not in the patch) then press them into the ground with a roller, tractor tires, etc. Then water them in. The moles won't die, but they will stay away for a pretty good while.

1/2/2005 3:18:34 PM

Butler, Ohio

Pour kerosene down their tunnel light it and burn the little vermin outta there!!

1/2/2005 6:04:57 PM

Cologne / Germany

The rest of the kerosene that will not burn and go down into your soil should be an excellent fertilizer.

1/2/2005 6:30:26 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

...ummmm....herbicide maybe.

1/2/2005 8:20:14 PM

South Western Pa

What's the coffee and stomp method?

1/2/2005 11:49:08 PM

ENGLAND

We keep a look out for new Mole Hills as they are being pushed up. Just go out with the 12 Guage and blast the Hill point blank where you see the Mole pushing the soil to the surface. Works every time.

1/3/2005 8:12:15 AM

Indiana

Mark
Have a cup of coffee and when you see them moving stomp them.

1/3/2005 11:08:30 AM

Follansbee, Wv

Exactly, moondog. It may not be the MOST effective method, but it is definately the most SATISFYING! I always pop the dead bodies out of the ground with a small gardening hand spade to confirm the kill. It's most rewarding.

1/3/2005 11:47:32 AM

Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)

April just stabs them with the pitchfork after I yell at her to kill it..The one she stabbed was a big as a small pocket gopher. Get them early in the spring before the start reproducing like rabbits. Having a healthy patch means having lots of yummy worms and night crawlers. Much better eating grounds than the surrounding soil.

1/3/2005 11:54:06 AM

Butler, Ohio

Floh..It was supposed to be funny...lighten up ok :)

1/3/2005 4:44:03 PM

Cologne / Germany

Hey, mine was also supposed to be funny...sorry for the misunderstanding...anyway I prefer some nuclear stuff to get rid of them :)

1/4/2005 8:10:39 AM

Montoursville, PA

Moles go where there are grubs. Some say they prefer white grubs. I never ask one so am not sure. I am absolutely sure that Milky Spore Disease a white grub treatment lasts for fifteen or more years in the soil. Application is a tad expensive but each grub that it touches dies and produces a gazillion Milkey Spore Disease spores. It will stay active as long as grubs are present. Moles will go to your neighbors yard when your yard has no grubs.

I have treated my property twice in thirty five years. I have no moles while the neighbors do. We are in the Jap Beetle zone. Fly in beetle keep the Milky Spore Disease spores active. I consider this the best beetle control too.

Give your neighbor a beetle trap. The majority of beetle will go to the trap area. If not caught they fall and bury in his yard and garden. :)

1/4/2005 3:43:03 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Milky Spore has done a number on the Jap Beetles here too. But watch those European Chafers & their grubs. Between them & the Asiatic Garden Beetles, I'd almost like to get the old Japs back.

1/4/2005 7:29:19 PM

Butler, Ohio

Floh, no problem. :)

1/4/2005 8:16:06 PM

South Harrison , N.J.

I was working on my patch on New Years day (temp.went up to 67) I found white grubs in the soil and some evidence of mole activity. I was going to use Grub-X or will that harm my worm population.

1/5/2005 2:21:29 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Grub-K that contains Imidacloprid as the active ingredient is only effective on first instar grubs. Te ones you're finding now are probably third instar. There is also a Grub-X that contains Halofenozide as the active ingredient & it will control second instar & younger.

In other words none of the Grub-X branded insecticides will control the grubs found now.

Bayer's Dylox (Trichlorfon) will do it but isn't labeled in any form for use in vegetables. It won't hurt the plants. But you won't eat anything produced on Dylox treated soil for a year.

Don't waste money & chemicals trying to kill the few grubs that come to the surface on a warm day. Sustained warm weather brings *ALL* the grubs up before we plant & you can rake or hand pick them then.

None of the products I mentioned kill earthworms at labeled rates but Sevin lays them to waste like there's no tomorrow.

1/5/2005 8:20:00 AM

Cologne / Germany

I have a Bayer manual here saying their mole / vole products brake down to lime after usage so it won´t harm soil or insects. It might be different from what Bayer sells in the US though.

1/5/2005 9:38:17 AM

South Harrison , N.J.

Thanks Tremor, that information will steer me in the right direction and save me money from buying something that would not solve the problem.
Willis

1/5/2005 1:14:41 PM

Oz

Gas them. Stake out the runs.
Run a pipe/S from a gas engine.
Blast em when they come up for air.
Maybe not,,,works on rats,HEHE.
My father used spinning daisy wheels in Florida.
They seemed to work.
Ferrit piss is good also,
use a big hypo to squirt into the tunnels.
LOL or a trained ferrit!

1/12/2005 11:33:04 PM