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Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

So it looks now that the gopher has taken one plant and two others have mosaic. They are slow growers and have the odd mottled coloration on the leaves. My diary has a good close up of one of the leaves for reference. I am going to pull these plants when I get home this evening. Say good bye to all of the 802 LaRue. Now down to just the Sherwoods. Odd that only the LaRues were affected, but I digress.

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryView.asp?season=2006&grower=35866&action=L

So now what? Can I rototill that area and replant? Is this virus similar to some of the human viruses and can only be passed intervenously or can it also be passed through the soil?

I am now down to just a couple plants and I have a couple back-ups started but not yet germinated (thanks to kind members on the board) So I am trying to figure out where to plant the backups. Also I have some "pale" but unmottled bush beans in the area and also lots of true cucumbers. None are exhibiting the virus...yet.

Suggestions are welcomed!

6/8/2006 11:05:46 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

IF you have a Mosaic Virus, it is only transferred by insect assault (usually Aphids) & is not soil borne.

However diagnosing Mosaic by visual symptoms alone is nearly impossible even for the trained eye. No pathologist worth their salt would dx your plants without a slide.

6/8/2006 12:15:12 PM

Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

Does it cost money to diagnose? Better off just killing em now to avoid further infestation just in case? Would not even know where to take it or send it.

6/8/2006 1:15:43 PM

Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

Sorry, so looking at my diary, would you experienced grower dispose of the two "infected looking" plants and then restart backups? Would you also dispose of the squash? It actually looks the worst as the leaves are curling a bit as well. As you may not be able to tell from the pic of the pumpkins, the leaves are otherwise normal looking with just the splotchiness. I could also take to a place for testing but not sure where to go.

Thanks

6/8/2006 7:54:15 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Your local cooperative extension service wouldn't charge anything to test for Mosaic. We already pay for the cooperative extension services with our taxes. Blue pages of the phone book.

Killing the existing plants would certainly destroy the current virus (IF it is a virus). But IF it is a virus, it will be right back again as the host plants which are harboring the virus would also have to be killed off in at least 2 mile radius.

Google "cooperative extension danville CA"

Here is the first of 4 pages. You have ample local resources. I'm sure they don't all share our passion but a few of these probably have staff Mosaic Virus experts that are familiar with you local situation.

Cooperative Extension
1553 Berger Dr # 1, San Jose, CA
31 mi S - (408) 299-2638

University of California: Cooperative Extension
420 S Wilson Way, Stockton, CA
41 mi E - (209) 468-2085

University of California Cooperative Extension: Pleasant Hill Office
75 Santa Barbara Rd, Pleasant Hill, CA
8.8 mi NW - (925) 646-6540

University of California Cooperative Extension
224 W Winton Ave, Hayward, CA
12 mi SW - (510) 670-5200

University of California Cooperative Extension
1131 Harbor Bay Pkwy # 131, Alameda, CA
14 mi SW - (510) 567-6812

University of California Cooperative Extension: Master Gardeners
Concord, CA
8.9 mi N - (925) 646-6586

University of California Cooperative Extension: 4H
Concord, CA
8.9 mi N - (925) 646-6543

Contra Costa County of: Cooperative Extension-2nd Floor
Pleasant Hill, CA
9.9 mi NW - (925) 646-6543

University of California Cooperative Extension: Nutrition Program
Hayward, CA
11 mi SW - (510) 670-5200

University of California Cooperative Extension: Community Education
Hayward, CA
11 mi SW - (510) 670-5202

6/8/2006 11:45:46 PM

Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

So I might as well stick it out and see what happens since I can't really eliminate the virus from everyone in a 2 mile radius.

Thanks for all of this info. I will give them a call and see IF it is the virus and what they suggest I do IF it is the virus. I sincerely appreciate the help and will report back when I find out.

6/10/2006 1:24:40 AM

Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

Okay, so now I read and read and everyone is recommending a systemic to kill off aphids. Well guess what, an aphid has to probe the plant to die and while it will die, it will also infect the plant. So I guess we are left to spraying if we want to control aphids AND prevent/control the virus. So I have seen Safer soap as the primary use, but what is the best with a residual, but safe? I am not adverse to chemicals as long as they are safe. Just figure better safe than sorry.

6/12/2006 7:02:00 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Speed is the key since Aphids can vector a virus in as little as 6 seconds. Most insecticides aren't that fast. Hence some folks are trying repellents like garlic Barrier in conjunction with fast acting insecticides.

Permethrin is fast (Astro, Permethrin & Pounce). So is Lambda-cyhalothrin (Warrior & Scimitar). Kicker is very fast (PBI synergized permethrins) but doesn't last very long.

Methomyl (Lannate) is still used in commercial cucumber production where CMV is prevalent because it is still considered the most effective.

6/13/2006 12:37:28 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Did you confirm it was a virus?

6/13/2006 12:37:46 AM

Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

Any of these available at the big box stores or good nursery under a common name? Which is your favorite?

6/13/2006 12:38:56 AM

Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)

Not yet, but..... the new growth is coming out better and better so I think it is NOT the virus. The coloration also came at about the same time I over applied Merit and only happened on the plants that received the most shade and did not drain as well. I tried calling a coop today but no luck. Will try several tomorrow to take it in to get it tested.

6/13/2006 12:40:48 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

We don't have the seasonal Whitefly problem here in the Northeast that you guys have in CA. Our tough winters decimate the WF population.

If it were me, I'd start every year as we do every year now with a soil applied systemic like Merit/Admire (imidacloprid) or Arena/Celero (clothianidin). We do have anual insect pests (Cucumber Beetles) that more than justify this exercise.

I'd then set sticky traps to monitor adults & start spraying Talstar (bifenthrin) or Warrior/Scimitar (Lambda-cyhalothrin) as soon as pressure starts building.

Lannate is a last resort but the day might come when I use it here. We also have CMV. You should see some of my wife's Dahlias. They're getting hammered so not growing Pumpkins here this year was (regretably) the correct decision.

If I never have a "plan B" location to grow in then Lannate/Garlic Barrier/Arena will be the likely artilary selection.

6/13/2006 10:13:09 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Here is another idea though.

I recently discovered a computer controlled Mosquito repellent system from Mosquito Squad.

http://www.mosquitosquad.com/index_new.php

These guys have an exclusive agreement with American Spraying Systems so a person has to pony up $5000 to get this exact system installed by one of their franchises. However a similar system *could* be home built for much less.

A tank holds a pyrenone based repellent that is premixed. The pump is clock controlled to feed at low volume at regular intervals through permanent spray nozzles which are strategically located throughout the treatment area (pumkin patch in this case).

For mosquitos the controller turns on up to 3 times a day. For aphids the intervals would need to be adjusted accordingly.

Non-insecticide repellents like Garlic Barrier can thus be applied every hour (or however often is needed) automatically.

This might sound like a crazy idea but it would work if properly engineered & executed.

For those living in the West Nile Virus areas Mosquito Squad is looking for franchice installers ($50,000). In a quirky area like metro NY this might not be a bad opportunity. LOL

6/13/2006 10:13:18 AM