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Cameron,ontario Team Lunatic

I thought I'd try to get some opinions on this topic. Could the yearly use of Mycorrhizia prevent the invasion of fusarium & other soil diseases from infesting your patch? I've grown in the same patch since I started this crazy hobby in 1999 & have used Mycorrhizia for the past 3 seasons. I haven't had any real noticable soil problems, but was wondering if this was because of the use of Mycorrhizia or have I just been lucky. I did have a small corner of my patch that was suspicious this year though. Would love to your thoughts & opinions on this.

Phil

11/7/2006 7:51:22 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

There are a lot of different Mycorrhizal species. Some are being combined with non-pathogenic Fusarium & being tested on Tomatoes for certain disease suppression. By themself I don't remember any that are noted for fusarium control.

Trichoderma harzianum (Root Shield) may also offer some Fusarium control especially when presented in combination with Mycorrhiza & other bacteria.

There are soil bacteria that control fusarium. Bacillus subtilis is cultured & registered specifically for this use. Subtilis is also a component in many Mycorrhizal inoculant packages as well as straight bacterial packages that are not leabeled as fungicides. Seeking fungicidal registration drives the cost of bacteria very high. But since Pumpkins can't read the labels, most folks use the straight bacterial inoculants in the confidence they are still enjoying some control.

The key to using bacteria (&/or other bio-controls) to control fusarium is to apply BEFORE the disease wakes in the early summer & keep applying every 2-3 weeks. Unlike Mycorrhizae, soil bacteria will shift back to a "natural condition" 3 weeks after treatmemt.

Biological diversity helps reduce plant stresses & inhibits Fusarium in ways still not well understood.

11/7/2006 10:14:45 AM

Montoursville, PA

Let's remember that the use of Mycorrhiza, Endo Type, is just part of a healthy patch healthy plant biological package.

If the basics are being practiced such as manures, re-mineralization and cover cropping a lot of soil building is included just in this practice.

The addition of aerobic teas, compost crop rotation and organic fertilizers all play their role for those seeking the best of all worlds methods.

We don't really have to know the specific whys. We watch the positive results for our proof in the pudding. It's back to worm counting and result watching that leaves no doubt or concern.

11/23/2006 10:01:16 PM

Cameron,ontario Team Lunatic

Thanks, Steve & Doc. I've been following the basics for the past 3 years & have an organic count @ 18%. We didn't till this fall & only added very old manure & put down a cover crop. It's been so cold & wet that the cover crop hasn't germinated yet & won't likely do it until spring now. How much will the winter weather effect my soil & all the living bacteria if it's bare dirt? It gets bitterly cold up here in Canada. I really don't want to add anything on top of my winter wheat seed, but was wondering if a thin top coat of straw or maple leaves might help keep the harsh winds & temps from any damage to my soil & still allow my seeds to germinate once it warms up. I usually have a cover crop up before the snow flies, but this year's been too wet to get into the patch at all. Thanks.

Phil

11/24/2006 6:30:21 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Phil,

Some folks don't use cover crops at all even though they use inoculants, teas & healthy patch techniques. The theory exists that most cover crops don't support the mycorrhiza we're after anyway. VAM-endo needs a specific host & I don't know of a winter cover that does this. Bacteria don't die in the cold. They slow down tremendously but they do live.

Inoculants are pretty cheap & should be employed whether a CC is sown or not.

I agree with Dwaine about the "not sure why" aspect of soil biology. I'm the sort of person that really WANTS to know why. I'm not alone so the research continues. And we learn more every year.

11/24/2006 9:26:44 AM

Montoursville, PA

My opinion..........Mother never permits bare soil. Give it a light mulch of whatever you have. I was late but have a light one going.

You are about where no till could be considered but then a serious mulch must go on or into the patch as the vine gets covered and the plant develops. The cover crop would be cut and left in place then covered by mulch in a no till management. Any organic fertilizers or minerals are best placed when the cover crop is spring cut.

11/24/2006 10:44:33 PM

Montoursville, PA

I have never read that a cover crop was placed for any reason related to the presence of Mycorrhiza. As far as we have been told to this hour there are just a few Endo Type Mycorrhiza known. It is not known which one of the several are specific to pumpkins so a minimum of three types are included in the better Mycorrhiza Products. We know that squash and pumpkins do respond to one or more Endo Mycorrhiza but the individual spore related to our interests is not known. http://www.bio-organics.com/ and Joel Holland have proven good products. There may be others not known to me. Bio-Organics has an archived library of news letters that is a growers Mycorrhiza Course #101. Because of the wide positive reaction to the introduction of Mycorrhiza it is likely easier to name a few plants that do not respond or resond to another type of Mycorrhiza.

Cover Crops and mulchs are used to hold soil structure, add humus, serve as a modest blanket dealing with surface temperature, supression of weed growth from fall germination and abrasion from winds.

11/24/2006 11:06:48 PM

Cameron,ontario Team Lunatic

Thanks Steve & Doc. I really appreciate your help. I'll try to get a light covering of straw to put onto the patch before the freezing temps. It should allow the winter wheat to come through it & will add organic matter to the soil in the spring. I've considered not tilling this spring, but will have to decide once the times arrives. If my soil is still nice & loose & the CC doesn't get too wild, I will just loosen the top couple inches with a harrows or cultivator & plant from there. Thanks for all your help.

Phil

11/25/2006 8:04:03 AM

Montoursville, PA

Phil..........it's really hard to break our old habits. So hard I find it darn difficult to keep my hands off the tiller come fall and spring. I know my patch is ready to enable no till.

If I can force myself to not fire up the tiller this spring all I need do is weed wack the early growth of the cover crop, set the plant and prepair to bury vines by mulching and perhaps pinning them until they are sending down their roots. I even have the materials close at hand to do all of the above. As you said...we shall see soon.

2/28/2007 9:56:52 AM