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Williamsburg,KY

I just read an article by MSU extension and it said that products containing Inidacloprid will not control grubs in the spring. They state to use Sevin or Dylox to kill grubs already present. So, what would be the purpose of applying Grubex or Bayer Tree and Shrub before I plant? It did say to apply Inadacloprid later in the season, like June or July. As you can see, I still am trying to make sense of what I should be using...I do have grubs in my patch as I type...big white ones, smaller brown ones and Im sure many other ones..So again, I ask all the dear people here to clear this all up. I thank you. Croley Bend

4/3/2008 2:51:54 PM

Fairport,NY

Croley:
Tremor Posted this a few post back: Hope it helps Explain it to you better?
To clarify:

The Imidacloprid (systemic) is best applied at planting to the soil where the roots pick it up & translocate it throughout the plant. This provides great Cucumber Beetle control, very good aphid control & pretty good Squash Bug control. The first treatment may be granular. Repeat in 45 days but by then, granules won't be easy to use so liquid is preferred.

Lambda-cyhalothrin or Bifenthrin are contact insecticides. These are applied as liquids as soon as Squash Vine Borer adults debut. They also provide aphid, cucumber beetle, etc control. Since they most be applied to leaves, stalks & stems liquid sprays are the only effective treatment option.

Granular contact insecticides are best used on lawns for chinch bugs, web-worms, army worms, ticks, chiggers, ants, fleas, etc. (June through August around here)

Granular Imidacloprid is best used on the lawn for white grubs (June 15 - Aug 1 around here).

4/3/2008 5:33:04 PM

Fairport,NY

Another good read that might explain alittle better?
http://www.turf.msu.edu/grubs_spring.htm

4/3/2008 5:37:52 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Croley,

Imidacloprid doesn't control 3rd instar (nearing adulthood) grubs so MSU is correct if we were trying to kill white grubs in a lawn.....but we're not. We're killing Cucumber Beetles & the earlier we apply the sooner we get results.

4/4/2008 12:41:24 AM

Williamsburg,KY

Ok, I believe I understand the whole concept. Im learning so much thanks to all you wonderful people. I do appreciate you time and efforts to help me understand. I will not be asking this question again. Thanks for your patience and now to grow a big one.. Croley Bend

4/4/2008 6:43:22 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

Stevann, don't ever stop askin ?'s!!!
Bumkin, are chinch, squash, stink bugs...all the same!!! Are they the home plate shaped bugs, that drill into yer pkns, and make em rot away....how do I control them later in the season? I had several 100-200 # pkns go down last year w/ little holes in em, thinkin the squash bugs did it!!! Peace, Wayne

4/4/2008 2:01:14 PM

Williamsburg,KY

Wayne, I know you asked Bumkin, but I cant resist. chich bug, squash bug and stink bugs are three different insects. The brown stink bug are shield-shaped 1/2 long, feeding habits of adults and nymphs is to puncture fruit skin to feed causing a gummy substance to come out, injured fruit has a pitted appearance. Chinch bug is only 1/16 inch long and love corn..Squash bug is 1/2 long and feed on leaves causing wilt. Squash bug loves pumpkin, melon, cukes. I have declared war on the squash bug here, once they set up camp its hard to control. Im hoping this year the systemic will help out some. OH yea, the squash bug when squished also smells..like the stink bug..Ok..good luck. Croley ...hey I didnt even ask a question..lol.

4/4/2008 2:14:16 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Stevann, after the systemic....then what!!! Go straigh to the Warrior, every 10 days or so?? Peace, Wayne

4/4/2008 5:02:41 PM

Greenfield Nh

bayer advanced tree and shrub with merit 1.4%. does anyone know the mixture per gallon of water for svb protection?

4/29/2008 10:05:38 AM