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Georgia

I was wondering what would be the proper mix rate per gallon if you are using both fungicides together. They seem like together they would be a good mix. And how often would yall use them. Thanks for any replys.

4/4/2008 10:49:27 AM

Kevinstinindians@yahoo.com

I've been wondering the same thing but haven't found the info yet. Or even if they can be sprayed at the same time on pumpkins without damage. Aliette is known for being a hot spray by it self. It would be nice to take advantage of the Alliette+Mancozeb synergy if we can.

4/4/2008 11:35:02 AM

Georgia

Maybe Tremor will chime in I mean I can spray these products on separate days but I figure if I can combine them it would be easier.

4/4/2008 1:17:36 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Jason, and PA...I have read for several years that a rotation of fungicides is the best thing!!!! Using the same product will make the plants immune to a specific product...therefore, I would guess, use one product and then the other would be better!! Peace, Wayne
PS...I have 3 chemical fungicides, and prbly won't use any of them until, the milk dont work no more!!!! Just a Ky. grower tho!!! Peace, Wayne
PS...early info on milk said 10%, and now I am reading 40% is the optimum mix!!! What do I know??? LOL Grow em BIG!!!!!

4/4/2008 2:09:49 PM

Kevinstinindians@yahoo.com

Yes, a rotation is best. And these should be used as a part of a rotation. In this case these two particular fungicides are synergistic when combined(mixed together and applied at the same time. I don't know of any other fungicides where this is the case.

Does anyone here have experience mixing these two for use on pumpkins?

4/4/2008 2:36:08 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Duh, sorta KY. dumb here I guess...does synergistic mean that they work better if combined together??? What makes this happen? Any other synergistic combinations that are known about?? Peace, Wayne
PS...Jason, how did you know that these 2 together were synergistic???

4/4/2008 5:07:54 PM

Georgia

Wayne just trying to figure these two fungicides out. Ive searched and searched but just cant come up with a easy application rate to mix these two together. I guess Ill just use them in rotation.

4/7/2008 8:21:08 AM

Wi

Jason, I don't believe you can mix ANYTHING with Aliette. I believe it has to be sprayed alone. I'm no expert, but this is what the experts tell me.

4/7/2008 11:59:44 AM

Georgia

Thanks Chris I was just wondering if I could mix the two..because they both cure or prevent different problems. Ill just alternate them along with Daconil sprayings.

4/7/2008 12:09:57 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

It depends what you're trying to control. Downy Mildew?
We also need to know which formulation you have. There are Wettable Powders (the originals) & the newer flowables. There are now also a raft of consumer versions to which I know very little of their formulation. Here are the Pro versions I have & use & "yes" they do make a nice synergistic combination. We used to mix them for a lower cost Pythium tank mix for putting greens.

Here is a tried & trusted combo for foliar treatment to ornamental plants that used to be on both labels but is on neither today:

Aliette 80WDG = 2.5 lbs/100 gals per acre
plus
Dithane 75DF = 1.5 lbs/100 gals per acre

The old putting green rate for pythium was opposite:

4 oz Dithane (Mancozeb) per 1000 sq ft
plus
2 oz Aliette per 1000 sq ft
when used in combination.

Aliette Drench = 12.8 oz per 100 gallons per 400 sq ft.

The politics of registering fungicides is very strange. Since Dithane (Mancozeb) is a contact fungicide that is under federal review, no one want to have that name on their label as a tank mix companion. See, if the Dithane label gets pulled, then all of the companion labels will require amending. That costs big bucks.

You do have to be careful mixing Aliette with other chemicals but mancozeb is OK.

4/8/2008 12:20:33 AM

Kevinstinindians@yahoo.com

Steve, have you used this combo on AG's before? Or only on other plants?

If I've done the math correctly the foliar mix would equal:

Aliette 80WDG = 0.4 oz/gallon
plus
Dithane 75DF = 0.24 oz/gallon

In my notes I have Aliette at 1.5oz/gal and Dithane at 2.0 oz/gal when being applied solo. In the mix Aliette is reduced to about on quarter of its stand alone rate and the Dithane is at about one eighth of its stand alone rate. If they are just as effective, or more effective, at that rate you could save alot of product over the course of a season. I assume the reduced rate on the Aliette is what may keep the mix from being too hot.

The first time I try a mix I'm going to mix up a small batch and try it on one or two leaves on a couple plants to see how they react.

4/8/2008 12:50:09 AM

Kevinstinindians@yahoo.com

Thank you for the help Steve!!!

4/8/2008 12:51:25 AM

Georgia

Thanks as always Tremor

4/8/2008 7:54:15 AM

Georgia

Yeah Pumpkin Pharmer trying to figure out the math my self. Its just so much easier to figure it out for me in gallon ratios then square feet. I suck at math one more question would these two products be used as a preventive matter or just to control the problems? Regardless if you spray them together or on separate days.. Thanks again for any replys

4/8/2008 8:01:30 AM

Kevinstinindians@yahoo.com

Steve, I'm looking to use Aliette as a foliar to control phytophthoria and pythium without doing drenches. I don't believe I've had problems with either disease before but I want to prevent possible problems.

I'll be using the two you listed Aliette WDG and Dithane DF. Do you believe the mix I listed above will work? Or would I be better off using the Aliette by it self at a heavier rate?

I also plan on using Cleary's 3336, Subdue Maxx and Aliette to control the bad guys in the soil.

For foliars I plan on using Aliette, Dithane, Daconil, Eagle, Banner Max, I might try Rhapsody and neem oil early in the season before disease pressure becomes heavy in mid summer.

Do you foresee any problems with these rotations?

4/8/2008 11:28:55 PM

Kevinstinindians@yahoo.com

Jason, I intend to try to prevent any disease problem. I don't want to try to cure one. I beleive once you figure out you have a disease problem its too late. The plant and fruit may survive but the pumpkin won't be as big as it could have been. Weight will be lost.

4/8/2008 11:40:16 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

We had a local grower who was hit with what we now know was Angular Leaf Spot. At the time we were guessing so we threw the book at the plants & the Arlette/Mancozeb combo was part of the arsenal. It worked fine. I've used it twice since then with no problems.

I'll have to review my other computer for the rate but it is widely variable depending on what is targeted, when, where, etc.

I like Aliette & all of the various other now off-patent phosphonates. Some like Agri-Phos are labeled as fungicides. Others like Acti-Phos are only labeled as fertilizer. Unlike other fungicides, phosphonates cause the plants to react to the free Phosphorus acid with vigorous growth especially roots.

If a patch has a history of soil borne diseases (rhizoctonia, fusarium, pythium, phytophthora, etc) then a thorough pathological history needs to be profiled. If the symptoms started with leaf wilting then the entry point was probably the roots in which case drenching might be the only plausible solution.

If the symptoms were first expressed above ground, then foliar treatments might be more than adequate.

Dave Garrell recently posted the name of a commercial lab that provides real soil tests for soil borne causal pathogens. It would probably be cheaper (and more rewarding) to test & treat right than to guess & treat wrong.

4/9/2008 12:15:04 AM