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Simi valley, ca

It seams iv got something in soil, same affect as last yr! stumps rot off roots , vines rot- some compleatly & some only part ways , Weird that its been over 3 weeks since i got it this yr but some of vine is still ok ? O ya other thing is not just the older leaves get bad but newer ones too they (SOME) get brown where it touchs soil & falls over (Rotten in that spot) Problem is We (Family) dont have money to spare for test, Anyone know of a place or cheep testing place ? Can some diseases be treated (for next yr) , I did solerize last yr !, Anyone with any ideas please respond, Thank you Glenn !!

9/1/2008 11:21:53 PM

Williamsburg,KY

Your local county extension agent should be able to help you out. Down here the tests are free. They would be in your telephone book under County Government, Extension Office. The are affiliated with the Land College in California. Give them a call, you probably already pay taxes for this service. Good Luck and let us know what happens. Croley Bend

9/2/2008 8:16:44 AM

Pataskala,OH

move the patch

9/2/2008 2:54:20 PM

Anamosa, IA BPIowegian@aol.com

I had some root rot problems the past 2 years. I used Alliette this year and it helped a lot. Several applications when the problems seemed to start (around pollination at may place). It is systemic and goes from leaves to roots. I also am setting up a rotation. The plants will be in the same patch every other year, and each time they will have the seedlings set in opposite sides of the patch. I also dug drainage ditches to better drain the soil. They really helped with 30" of rain May to July.

9/2/2008 6:14:07 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Get a real pathology test done as Croley said. You can't fight an enemy that can't be seen.

9/3/2008 12:40:38 AM

Wi

Pathology testing should be $30 or less. Much less than you probably spend on ferts that are all for nothing if you are rotting roots off your plants. Problem is if you can't move you probably need a fungicide that costs over $100.

Aliette (foliar) is a pretty inexpensive option, but you have to get your plant tested before blind spraying.

9/3/2008 9:42:35 AM

Monrovia, CA

Glenn, I got your message but have no contact info for you...email me if you can at Autumnloft1@verizon.net. I'm sorry to hear that your patch let you down again...was hoping for a huge 1014 pumpkin! Hope you still have fruit you can hold for a contest.
Michelle

9/3/2008 2:26:34 PM

St Matthews, SC

it wouldnt surprise me if it was a form of phytophthora. Though it could be something else. Its in my soil and has done me in the past 2 years except this year was probably worse. That fungus is no joke. it sounds just like the signs i see in my patch. each day i would see leaves flop halfway with some stem damage but its shriveled on the spot, and by the next day a foot of vine would look like that ,and within a week you probably have pulled the whole plant. Only small rooted sections would hang in for a little longer but usually wasnt long until those parts went as well. There seems to be a really ranomized hit area on the pumpkins. By about mid august my patch was 80% clear. well hope this might help in finding out the problem.
Brandon

11/24/2008 12:35:31 PM

Decatur, IL

It sounds like either Fusarium or Phytophthora. Either way, the best bet is to move to another patch. If you have tissue samples tested, you'll be able use a fungicide or bactericide that suites the disease-causing agent that's identified. If they tell you it's Fusarium or Phytophthora, they'll probably mention that there are no effective chemical controls and to move to ground where no cucurbits have been grown for 3-4 years.
I've dealt with both diseases...tried solarization and soil fumigation. Both had very limited effect.
Good luck.

11/24/2008 5:04:55 PM