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Princeton Kentucky

What else to do in the winter time other than buy seeds and read posts,lol. Well I found out doing both are benificial but not paying close attention to what your reading will hinder you. I have grown AG's for size now for 3 years and just in the last few days I have caught on to something that folks (Including myself foremost) are doing that really holds us back in controlling pests and diseases and PB's. Every year I wait to see posts from people in my area or the bugs myself on MY plants and then I attack. I wait to read about Downy or Powdery Mildew or see the late june-July first onsets of powdery mildew and then I attack....WRONG. Keep in mind I'm no expert but I -Continued below -

1/10/2014 11:54:35 AM

Princeton Kentucky

have been paying attention a bit closer & have found no matter how late is for us... we can learn more. Maybe theres alot of growers out there who are already aware of this but Downy and Powdery Mildew can initiate at the Cot Leaf stage...MAN THATS EARLY!!! So this year I am spraying early both Systemic and Translaminar Fungicides. Read the Bottles you look to purchase **CLOSE**VERY CLOSE**Systemic meaning that the chemicals dilute small enough with water to be absorbed through the roots and enter the plant through all three systems, Translaminar meaning the Fungicides can enter small openings on the leaves but stay just in those close cell areas or within certain sized viens and not throught thee entire plant like Systemics can. Pesticides also need to be sprayed with the same two systems both Systemic and Translaminar and also Contact (meaning actually contacting (Coating) the bugs with the pesticides. I think my biggest problems with growing is plant disease, I look to make a huge gain on this here in 2014. I've learned I need to be on a 7-14 day avg spraying cycle for pests and disease early on and not wait around for the problems to stair me in the face and take precious pounds on my Kins & Melons. Why do I feel like I'm sitting in a circle at an Atlantic Giant Anonymous meeting or an AGA Meeting,lol. Hello my name is Joe..... I've neglected my AG plants now for the last 3 yrs...I've been told by my friends I have problems but I just won't see it.lol The Best in 2014 to All

1/10/2014 11:55:02 AM

Princeton Kentucky

You all can blame Matt D. for my posts. I've read some great post that he has put on in the past and like others I have read My eyes have finally opened up and I can see what I'm not doing that holds me back a bit.

1/10/2014 12:00:08 PM

Princeton Kentucky

One last reply. Heres a great link related to the different types of spraying applications and their meanings

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/contact_systemic_and_translaminar_how_insecticides_move_in_plants

1/10/2014 12:05:38 PM

Farming- a bunch of catastrophies that result in a lifestyle

LOL. I just sprayed the soil at the emergence line on my 1543 and 710 I'm experimenting on over the winter in the greenhouse. You can't start too early! I don't quite dare spray the seedlings yet, they have only just broke the surface in the last day or so, but the dirt and stem area has officially been doused.

1/10/2014 2:50:54 PM

Princeton Kentucky

Sounds good LB. I may have put a bit too much of thee obvious into this post but if it helps a few and myself realize thee importance in spraying early by the right means then so be it...Keep us posted on how its going in the greenhouse

1/10/2014 5:02:46 PM

Farming- a bunch of catastrophies that result in a lifestyle

In about a week I will have to move them into greenhouse. Right now they are still in their 'little hut'.

1/11/2014 7:18:07 AM

Connecticut

So now I am getting blamed for the reason why other growers make long posts;-)

Not to complicate things there are a few items I wanted to mention. First, Downy and Powdery are both mildews but have very different lifecycles and need to be treated differently. Most growers I find hear the word mildew at the end and think they are basically the same and this is not the case.

Here is a good comparison put out by the University of Georgia…

http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/cobb/anr/Documents/Powdery.pdf

For those that like some microscope pictures and fungicide suggestions look at…

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&ved=0CEMQFjAH&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ct.gov%2Fcaes%2Flib%2Fcaes%2Fdocuments%2Fpublications%2Ffact_sheets%2Fplant_pathology_and_ecology%2Fpowdery_and_downy_mildews_on_greenhouse_crops.pdf&ei=5xfSUta4GMmu2AX-tIHoCw&usg=AFQjCNEpKhwntXaZVHZh2WNemFIyOottlA&bvm=bv.59026428,d.aWc&cad=rja

While both mildews can occur at basically any leaf stage in order for the cotyledons to be infected there has to be very ideal conditions. This also typically happens in a greenhouse environment as the UV light is reduced and the amount of humidity is often increased compared to field conditions. There is also, something called juvenile resistance meaning that even if a spore of Powdery Mildew lands on an immature pumpkin leaf it may not germinate because it does not realize it is on a host as the cuticle is not fully developed.

Take Home message: Understand the difference between powdery and downy mildew so you can implement an effective control strategy if necessary.

1/11/2014 11:45:55 PM

Connecticut

Now on to the fungicides…

There are many different types of fungicides with many different modes of action. There are also different types of systemic fungicides! There are three main types local, xylem and phloem systemic. In short local stays around the area it is applied to. Xylem flow is mainly in one direction which can be thought of as away from the initial application site. Phloem systemic is the “best” type as it can move up and down the plants internal pluming. This means you could spray the leaves and the active ingredient could reach down to the roots.

The idea of needing to spray before the problem starts is part of the ideal situation, but spraying to early can lead to larger problems. Fungicides do not kill every last spore, so essentially there is constant selection for resistant strains. As a result, if you spray to early then the odds for resistance increase with each spray and this is why typically the new expensive fungicides work so well, which is mainly because most growers are not using them so there, is little resistance. However, once usage increases on the large scale typically effectives decreases.

This is why rotations are important and the best spray policy would be to use each product (or active ingredient) only once a year. In my opinion, I think you should spray with a purpose and not because the calendar says to. The key is identification and scouting so you can catch any potential problems right as they start and not before they get out of control.

1/11/2014 11:50:11 PM

Connecticut

Here is a good read that centers on fungicides to help control Asian Soybean Rust, so while it is not talking about pumpkins the fungicide information is still valid and there is a picture comparison overtime to see how a particular fungicide spreads over a leaf…

https://www.pioneer.com/home/site/us/agronomy/library/template.CONTENT/guid.6604153B-DB01-CE9E-6A9D-B916EE2573BB

Take Home message: Learn about the modes of action of your fungicides and use them conservatively to reduce the chance of resistance. The key is to start with an accurate diagnosis of a potential problem early in development.

1/11/2014 11:50:23 PM

Princeton Kentucky

Thanks Matt, I agree with the rotation analogy, very Important. Three systems do need three coverages because ultimatly they do have 3 potentials of chaneling the fungicides..exactly. The main reason I need to work by the calendar here in midwest Illinois is that we have the onlsaught on mildew when native plants like ragweed pop up and thats early. There are new reports for area from Agriculture depts showing the increasing Downy & Powdery epidemic in my county and countys around us. I see spots on even native ragweeds, by May even the newly formed leaves on all my fruit trees are seeing powdery mildew and I'm spraying Fertilome and Bonide fruit tree sprays to combat it. Did'nt mean to imply that everyone needs to spray early no matter what...my mistake. I think your right on the resistance build up. Here personaly for me I think its survival and this year I need to kick it up on the melons and Kins. It may have to do with the agriculture around me along with the proximaty of the Mississpi River but it also doesn't help that we have one of the largest yearly infestations of cuke beetles and Squash bugs to battle on top of this mildew problem,lol. That is an awesome link..been there done that, been on my "least" favorites list!! Thanks Keep us posted on how its going over there! enjoy your progress reports.

1/14/2014 7:07:33 AM

Princeton Kentucky

I am also steping up air flow under the plants canopy and going to put down drip tape in the screen house to battle humidity around the leaves that promotes mildews... that alone I believe helps in fighting the Mildews here. I'm installing simple box fans low on timers to aid in cross flow and putting my wind breaks on thee outside of the screen house. 16' x 3' white metal roof pannels hinged at the bottoms so I can safely handle them if a storm is coming up quick.

1/14/2014 7:16:32 AM