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Subject:  What's my problem?

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Edwards

Hudsonville, Michigan (michiganpumpkins@sbcglobal.net)

Every year I've been growing AGs I've experienced a dieback of the plant starting about mid-August. Leaves get brown and wither starting at the stump, then slowly progressing outward. Is this due to overwatering/fertilizing on my part?
Some disease?
Or natural dieback of the plant?
Any comments & suggestions appreciated...
Frank

3/5/2004 7:22:01 PM

huffspumpkins

canal winchester ohio

Natural die-back does occur, but it should not set in that soon. Over fertilizing will speed up the process greatly.......Paul

3/5/2004 7:56:07 PM

Tremor

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Sounds like Powdery Mildew. Got any photos?

3/5/2004 10:31:09 PM

John G.

derry n.h u.s.a.

photos would help!

3/6/2004 9:50:37 PM

it is what it is

Streator ,Illinois

Frank,
are you close to a tree like a walnut tree, have had this same thing happen to me every year, mid august is when it starts for me , have 4 plants in the patch and the 1 that is closest to the tree starts alot earlier then the others.
I cut the tree down this year and will see what happens in the up coming years.

3/7/2004 2:03:36 AM

Edwards

Hudsonville, Michigan (michiganpumpkins@sbcglobal.net)

All:
No pictures, but now that I have a digital camera I'll take some of my progress this year. I'm just hoping to be taking pictures of my 1000+ pounder, not some dead leaves! Leaves gereally turned brown at the edges then progress inward. I have also had powdery mildew, for which I have used daconil in the past. And, no walnut trees nearby, but there are white pines, some sort of hedge, an oak and a maple in the vicinity (within 50 feet). Does that have anything to do with it?
Frank

3/7/2004 8:54:24 AM

docgipe

Montoursville, PA

Pumpkins like full sun. If the trees are shading the patch one or the other has to go somewhere else. Nothing wrong with the named variety of trees. Within fifty feet is serious shade if positioned to block early day and late day sun...either or.

From fifty feet your tree roots could be feeding on your pumpkin patch additives under the patch even when tilled well. They could be there to scavenge the extra water you pumpkin patch may enjoy.

All kinds of misuse of chemicals and fertilizers can burn or stress the plant both above and below ground. There is a far greater chance that the mis-use of chemicals comes from use of synthetic applications.

Stress on the patch for any reason leads to plant failure. Nature culls the members in stress. No special feeding can replace full daytime natural sunlight.

3/7/2004 10:25:35 AM

Edwards

Hudsonville, Michigan (michiganpumpkins@sbcglobal.net)

Doc:
I'm pretty good on sunlight....those trees are all out of my line of direct sun. All but a white pine of my neighbor's which as it grows will rob some of my early morning light. Sure wouldn't mind if a beaver came along and...

3/8/2004 6:52:40 AM

Phil H.

Cameron,ontario Team Lunatic

Frank, I had that problem myself. By the 3rd week in aug. my pumpkins would quit growing and the plant would slowly start to die. Last year was the first year I used kelp/ fish as a foliar feed and my plants kepted growing into the later part of the season. I'm not sure if that was my problem, but it seemed to help me reach a new PB. Good luck this season.

Phil

3/8/2004 10:56:03 AM

docgipe

Montoursville, PA

In view of the fact that we will not be able to visit the patch let's go for healthy patch. 25lbs. Of organic very low number organic fertilizer, 25 lbs of kelp meal, 10 lbs of micro-nutrients and minerals followed by foliar feeding with weekly treatments 2 ounces of fish, kelp and molasses.
...this fall let's shoot for six inches of manure, 10 lbs of green sand and 10 lbs of Azomite from Fertrell Co. and a good cover crop of rye grass planted quickly after the weigh off. Hairy vetch is even better but can not be grown every where. As far as I know rye grass will grow on damp concrete so it is a good all around choice.
...In addition this year...when planting use a Mycorrhizal inoculation. Joe Holland has one of the best.
...Keep the weeds down to a nearly weed free condition and bury all the vines about an inch deep. This instruct is good for about a 1000 sq. ft. patch...slightly more or less.

3/8/2004 11:50:00 AM

docgipe

Montoursville, PA

You still need to address the very possible mill dew condition. That gets a lot of us. It is sneaky too! Kelp will help control it but not fully control it in my experience. One of the AGRO-K Products Vigor Cal-Pros controls nicely sometimes or some years needing no other treatment. Various fungicides remain to be used if they must be used. Prevention may be the best approach. Once mill dew has a foothold I have seldom stopped or reduced it killing action.

3/8/2004 11:56:47 AM

Total Posts: 11 Current Server Time: 7/31/2024 8:28:05 AM
 
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